Great advice. Thank you very much.
Yes, the wheel binds with the caliper on and the car not started. I asked about the pistons and they said they never came out. That doesn't mean they didn't come out to the point it was obvious.
I too thought about the brake line having a manufacturer defect. Perhaps it is somewhat restricting the fluid.
They did put on the OEM clip back on and it improved although the wheel still felt restrictive when driven. The temp for that rotor was 20-degrees more than the rest after a couple miles with the old clip.
I'll have them check the thickness of the pad too. Perhaps they can swap the pad with the other wheel and see if the issue follows.
By brother-in-law mentioned the ABS system. That's the next step if none of the other resolutions work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spuds
The wheel binds with the caliper on when the car hasn't been started? Did they push the pistons back in before reinstalling it? It sounds like some sort of brake line issue to me if the fluid can't be pushed out of the caliper.
Is "putting oem back on" is referring to the oem rotor or just the clips? If not, check the width on both front rotors. If one is out of specification, it might be too thick for the caliper/pad. Also, check the pads' thickness as well.
If you only have problems after being on the road, you could try driving in diagnostic/pedal-dance mode, or even remove the ABS fuse, to see if the VSC/Ediff/ABS is going haywire. If you still have issues, your problem is more likely mechanical. If everything is fine in those modes then you probably have an electronic fault.
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