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Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh
1. Reducing tire pressure - sometimes even 1 psi will make an appreciable difference in noise and comfort
2. Bushings - surprisingly fitting rear subframe bushings from Whiteline made the ride more pliant and less crashy. The clunks went away as well. I gained a bit of noise but the good kind. In fact, after fitting all the trans/diff/subframe bushings and inserts, friends say the car sounds like it was tuned. But it's less clunky.
3. Knowing what causes them - sometimes it's your work ID badge in the door pocket that keeps rattling. Sometimes the passenger seat isn't fully clicked into position. Sometimes it's the seat belt buckle against the door. The rear seat back being clicked into position on only one side drove me crazy for months til I figured out that's what it was.
Other than that, no rattles really.
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#3 speaks to me. I lost my mind on a ride home thinking I had a front right endlink, tophat, or balljoint failing and it turned out to be a red bull can a passenger had left in the door.
Choosing parts that have a tiny bit of compliance make a big difference, like using OE or Group N Top hats instead of camber plates.
I found that doing the whiteline positive shift kit, and rear subframe bushings really helped with some of the rear end clunks, drivetrain shudder and wheel hop that was annoying and noisy.
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SOLD: 2015 WRB BRZ Limited ('02 WRX BBS, S-04's, Stoptech Sport pads, MXP SP, AVO drop in filter, Mishimoto Intake tube, decatted header, OFT 93 Stage 2 EL Tune, Kartboy rear shifter bushing, Whiteline transmission and subframe lockout bushings, ST Coilovers, SPC Camber bolts w/smaller crash bolt, SPC LCA's & SPC Toe Arm bushings, Red TOMs, TRD Wing.)