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- I wouldn't ever guide when aligning, just by position on camberplates. There are some variances between cars/parts, slack of mounts/bushings and as result more then possible differences between what is "max", "min" or specific position in between.
- Do camber on camber rig, where you see what alignment really is and dial to what you want to get to get those measurements right/even, ignoring, "what's measured on plates".
- Camber may naturally increase also from extra (driver's) weight. Usually way less then 0.8dg for you though, imho more like 0.1-0.2dg. But if one is anal about that, one may ask suspension techs to dial alignment while one sits in car.
- IF you have checked that tire pressures are even, and IF camber is even (as per alignment rig results, not by "maxed out") i'd suspect toe being out of whack / not even side to side or toe not properly set to track straight front vs rear. Worth remembering that on our cars changing toe changes also camber and vice versa, so hopefully they didn't just dial toe, and then separately camber, ignoring changes to toe from camber adjustment. But first thing i'd check (simplest/quickest/for free) would be tire pressures and if tires are mounted right (if tires are directional) on wheels.
- btw, do you track car? -3, -4 .. camber sounds way too much for car IF that is only daily driven (0 to -1.5dg for camber sounds more reasonable for DD use). One may have more grip when cornering very hard and fast (if on public roads, then usually that means one most of a time going way above speed limits / hooning / endangering self & others) with more static camber, but this is too much for just daily driven. As side ill-effects for too much camber for driving type there might be less grip in wet/worse grip in straight line/car more tending to follow longitudinal road groves, and uneven tire wear (inside edge).
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