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Old 09-24-2018, 03:46 PM   #17
Kaotic Lazagna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chimera View Post
I like the stealth install look, so I have everything running in factory locations, which is certainly not ideal, and is why I mentioned the off axis response earlier. The factory locations fire pretty much straight up into the windshield.


The factory wiring is a bit confusing. I ended up dumping most of the factory wiring except for the doors, and ran new wires from the crossovers in the rear of the car to the dash for my current speakers.


If you are wanting to only replace the dash 3.5, you can run it full range with pretty much any of the speakers in this thread, as long as they are 4ohm, the factory wiring will put them in parallel with the tweeter in the dash and you'll end up with a 2ohm load on the head unit. The doors are powered separately off an amp in the rear of the car that takes the high level front signal and repeats it. you could also try to reuse the cap on the factory speaker, IIRC it is glued to the side of the housing. I don't recall its specs, but if you did this you'd have the same "crossover network" at the factory speaker did, just with a better speaker.
I really appreciate your help. What if I don't use the cap on those 4" Daytons you posted? Do you think it'll be overwhelming for the high frequencies (not that I like the factory tweeters reproduction or the highs).
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