Quote:
Originally Posted by BrunoS72
Thanks, I am going to split the camber between the plates and the bolts. The car has lowering springs and I take it to the local autox often.
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NP. This interference between the link and the inner wheel well could have been avoided or reduced greatly if aftermarket suspension manufactures moved the upper end link mount on the strut just a quarter inch or so outward from the factory location.
With all the testing and fitting these guys do pre-production I'm surprised nobody has caught on. Instead, they stick to the factory dimensions even though it's obvious what the use and intents of these damper system buyers are. (performance driving, lowering and 'hellaslam' purposes)
So best bet with your current situation is, again, Max adjustment from the knuckles allowed then the rest of the negative adjustment from the tops.