I jotted down some notes for myself to remember next time (several years from now hopefully) I have to do this again. Just thought I'd post the notes in case it helps anyone else.
* Toyota parts are usually cheaper, and in some cases it's significantly so. Toyota sells the OEM clutch for $102, Subaru sells it for $169. I bit the bullet and bought the Subaru one because I didn't want to wait 1 extra day to get my clutch installed. They had a few in stock, Toyota had to order theirs.
* I don't know how you're supposed to get this rubber covering off without ripping or tearing it. I just tore mine off completely (and I mangled my lock pin doing it).
* If you plan to take apart the center console in the interior, the USB Tray is a pain to get out. There's 3 tabs on the top & bottom that you have to pry loose before pulling it out.
* I used a 30mm hex to plug up the spline hole where the driveshaft goes. I wrapped teflon tape around an extension and stuck that into the socket to keep tranny fluid from spilling out. A little still managed to leak out so it's good to stuff some shop towel or rags around the socket to soak up any drips.
* It was too much trouble for me to try and keep the engine from rotating as I tightened the flywheel bolts, so I just used a impact gun. I used the ARP bolts just in case since they're supposedly stronger.
* A transmission jack makes this job a ton easier whether you're by yourself or working with someone. Cough up the extra $60 or so to buy the
800-lb version vs the 450-lb version. It's much easier to jack up & tilt the tranny.
You won't be able to slide the tranny out from under your car with this jack however, unless your car is 3 ft or higher off the ground, this jack just isn't low enough. You can always lift the tranny off the jack and drag it on the floor to get it out from under the car.
* When trying to put the tranny back onto the engine, I jacked the rear of the car slightly higher so I wouldn't have to push the tranny as much to slide it back up against the engine. You'll need 2 floor jacks to do this though (along with the trannsmission jack), as the first floor jack will be needed to hold up the engine.
* There's a narrow gap between the engine & transmission (at the bottom) where you can see the teeth of the flywheel. I don't know if there's supposed to be something covering this gap, but nothing was covering mine. So I used a big flathead screwdriver and push the teeth to rotate the flywheel/engine while trying to slide the trannsmission back on. The [transmission] spline should go in without too much effort if the spline is lined up correctly with the center of the clutch/flywheel. This is where having a transmission jack that can tilt comes in handy. I had the whole car tilted slightly downward towards the front too.
If you do force the transmission in too hard, your center clutch teeth/gooves will get crushed and look like the left picture (right picture is how it should look), and your clutch won't disengage properly.
* 13 lb-ft is good enough for the clutch line bolt. Don't over-torque it, or else....
But if you
did do what I did, here's the replacement bolt #112925161:
https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/...112925161.html
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