Quote:
Originally Posted by ermax
I warned you not to mess around inside the car. :P
So this is good news then. You just need to fix the lockout which is very easy. Here are the directions from the service manual but I didn't even follow them. I just loosened it up so it could slide around a little and then a moved the shifter around until it would go into 1st and 2nd but not reverse and the tightened the bolts.
https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...59894263533865
Once you get the shifter working correctly then you can focus on bleeding the clutch. Two rules when bleeding is, don't run dry and don't let the clutch up unless the bleeder valve is closed. If either of those things happen you are just putting air back in the system. Get a friend to help out with this process. Just have them top off the reservoir as it drops and maybe open/close the valve for you. |
Ok I think I may have the lockout situation figured out (not quite fixed, but I'm not worried bout it as much).
As for the clutch, when I try to bleed it... ugh.
When I step on the clutch pedal, it springs really fast to the floor and stays there. I guess that's the helper spring in action when there's no hydraulic pressure from the fluid...?
And it doesn't engage the slave cylindar either. When I switched out the slave cylindar, I might've gotten air in the system, but it's like there's no pressure at all now. So basically I can't pump fluid out to bleed the system, and I'm not sure how to tell if it's the cylindar/fluid is at fault or the if I messed up elsewhere.
The only thing I did during my clutch/TOB install was unbolt the slave cylinder to pull off the tranny. After putting the tranny back on, is when I discovered the slave cylindar's rod couldn't be pushed back in. It's a pretty simple swap replacing it, I can't imagine I screwed that up. Any advice on how to diagnose what's wrong now?