Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor
Add to that, even with a dyno, you will have a hard time tuning for the actual conditions your engine will see in real life.
Tuning to the tenths of AFR to get most power on a dyno only to have it retard timing once you take it on track/street/whatever-kind-of-driving-you-do seems like a bit waste of time in any case. I'd say tune for least FLKC instead.
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There is a definite AFR band for making power, at least on the boosted cars, even without any knock corrections. Hence my comments about knowing what ballpark you want rather than making sure you're hitting within 0.1 of target
IMO you want as lean as possible in that band for day to day as not wasting fuel but enough to stop knock corrections. But you're correct that a few degrees of timing loss costs more power than a slightly richer AFR. Whenever I've been on the hub dyno we run 5th gear and 10-12 second ramps which would roughly simulate a decent 4th/5th gear pull on the street IMO. Certainly for AFR tuning it's as good as you can realistically get.