Quote:
Originally Posted by 14stu
I've nearly burned my hand trying to check tire pressures immediately after coming off track, so I'm painfully aware of how hot rotors get. But the wheels themselves shouldn't heat up too much (not enough to thermally expand enough to loosen a center cap.).
The thermal camera videos of brake cooling tests show the rotor behind the wheels glowing hot and the wheels in front dark and cool but the scale could be too high to read the wheel temps.
I'll have to take some temperature readings next time, I'm not nearly as sure the wheels don't get that hot anymore. I know they could very quickly because I've changed wheels in between sessions and while the tires were warm the wheels weren't.
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On a stock car, rotor heat conducts to the rotor hat, which then conducts into the knuckle and wheel. After a session, the wheels being a few hundred degrees is not unusual.
This is part of the reason why 2 piece rotors are used; it helps keep the heat in the rotor to dissipate away, rather than conducting out to the knuckle and wheel, which doesn't have as much surface area relative to the mass. That heat can also contribute to wheel bearing failure, and wheel fatigue, in extreme cases.