Quote:
Originally Posted by carsebuco
The process was:
Wet sand with 800-1000-2000-3000, then either:
A: apply PlastX by hand, which didn't buff anything out
B: apply by drill attachment at 1500rpm, which caused blotches
C: Apply layers of clear coat and leave as is, which turned out a little foggy/gritty and I could see scratches on the inside
D: Apply clearcoat, then sand it down with 2000 just enough to even it out then buff it out, which also caused blotches with PlastX
I will be honest with you: if I had the tools for what you suggested, I'd be more than willing to try to keep fixing it. I screwed myself in trying to fix something that wasn't necessarily broken, and I paid for it (literally about 80$ down the drain due to all the different methods I tried).
I feel that it's something I need to learn by watching someone do this in front of me and follow it right behind, because none of the YouTube videos helped: everyone made it look so easy, and NO ONE had any of these issues I had.
Again, I'm almost giving up on it. I might try the sanding once again with what I have and try a different method, I'm not sure, but if it fails I might just say "fuck it" and buy new ones. I'm an extremely noob when it comes to mechanics and manual labor, and I have fun doing things and trying to learn, but this has brought nothing but headaches for me and my girl, who I keep snapping at because I keep failing at this.
Hell maybe I'll buy new ones, pull these out and try to learn how to fix it then. At least I won't bave a timeline and my car will be drivable.
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Does the drill attachment have a DA action?
Is the pad wool or foam?
Are you priming the pad correctly? (and periodically lubing it, if necessary?)
If the pad is wool, and the drill does not have a DA attachment, this could be an outcome of the nonrandom action of the drill + a heavy cutting pad as such + more pressure (not unlike that of a rotary buffer).