Quote:
Originally Posted by Hades
The only thing that makes me hesitate going FI is that 10k can easily turn into 15-20k with one failure. The engine blows, then you're building the engine since it's out (why not). You then turn up the boost since your new engine is rebuilt to handle the extra boost, so then the tranny goes due to the high torque loads. Soon you're out 20k+ and you have a loud car to DD (with likely a squealing transmission due to the reinforced gears unless you have lots of $$$).
|
If you have to wonder about it, just do it. After a certain point you're shorting yourself and the [limited] time you have with this platform. I've tightened up the chassis/steering with OEM TRD/Bilstein street-tuned (not track) parts so some comfort is sacrificed (I don't DD it anyway). A chattery lightweight flywheel and twin vortices make little race car sounds. The tiny TRD x MOMO steering wheel makes steering more intimate and STI quickshifter and TRD USA short shifter bracket make shifts extra crisp. Though the supercharger adds some weight [mostly right against the firewall], the car still feels balanced but lighter because it now has a forward agility that complements its quick lateral transitions. I love the renewed character and drama. These are the visceral feel items that make my drive in the BRZ a "special event" every time. Feels more serious yet like a ridiculous toy at the same time compared to the Caymans I drove. (I envision the A110 which I flooded this thread with to be a better manifestation of my build.) Though a Cayman aftermarket exists, I don't get the impression that it's as abundant/accessible. That's something to celebrate while we can. And if my motor blows (not likely, more on that later), I look forward to figuring out a CA smog legal swap. I believe LS or FA20DIT swaps are becoming turnkey (2JZ coming from an older model year isn't CA legal for me). Or build a 2017+ motor. As long as I'm healthy and kicking, things can only get better.
Like others posting in this thread, I stubbornly held the "purist" mindset of keeping it NA as its visionaries intended (namely Club4AG founder Moto Miwa who heavily pushed this philosophy onto his buddy, Toyota Chief Engineer Tetsuya Tada). And I did so for several years being an original owner from the first batch that shipped to the US in May 2012. But this platform is revered by Tada-san himself for being a blank canvas to suit its owner's wants. I envy people who can find bliss in keeping it NA. This is where the "purist" in me begins to fade as the "enthusiast" takes over... there are abundant OEM quality temptations (I'll point some out) that come with owning this platform and are impossible to avoid. For a time, CA smog laws kept me distanced from them... annoyed me to the point of almost moving on from this platform. But we're blessed with an aftermarket so strong that it has CA smog legal options. This would breathe new life into my BRZ.
To stay CA smog legal, besides suspension, I could only add an intake and exhaust and kept it that way several years. Eventually wanted the TRD Lightweight Flywheel/Clutch that came in the 14R60. With that clutch being a stage 3 metal facing 3-puck, TRD subtly encourages you to add power. When Tom's (a factory supported racing team and tuner of Toyota) released a supercharger and TRD built some track-only TVS1320 superchargers, the Dark Side teased me. When Edelbrock released their TVS1320 (took their time being 3 years after other FA20 FI kits hit the market AND it was CA smog legal?!), that was game over NA for me. Edelbrock supercharges V6 Toyota powered Lotuses from the factory and TRD editions of Toyotas in Australia. Edelbrock shipped it with a massive heat exchanger from one of their V8 superchargers to mitigate the FA20s notorious heat issue. Would've been sufficient for my style of driving but I added the Forester XT OEM oil filter cooler, OEM FA20DIT PCV valve, and TRD clutch (mentioned earlier). My friend's stock NA motor from MY2015 had his cam plates leak after Subaru improved the sealing from the factory. My car is from the first batch in 2012 with boosted motor for over a couple years. My cam plate is still bone dry. The difference is likely in driving habits.
I believe there are common failures that happen on the FA20 regardless of aspiration (stock, NA tuned, or FI) and a laundry list of track proven items to mitigate them. I haven't memorized/done all (may be overkill for my driving style) but such items may include an oil cooler, AOS/catch can, and cam plate. Could be argued that a stage 1 FI build with these items should outlast a stock or NA build without. There are owners on the FR-S/BRZ Owners facebook page (they're also on the original Enthusiast page but the Owners group was created to filter out non-owner trolls) who have been tracking their FI builds on original internals with great success. I also have friends who've blown up their NA motors during the growing pain years of tuning. The FA20 being a ticking time bomb might be the echo of a loud minority who always like to wring out their engine. Others speak of the FA20 as a robust new piece of tech.
@
CounterSpace Garage posted this on their fb page today:
"Checking the power rating of this high mileage 4 year old tracked JRSC C30-94 kit on the Delicious Tuning dyno. This JRSC kit still has the original Rotrex unit and stock FA20 engine."