[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Getting back to this. I honestly think it's the clutch. Your test is valid for full disengagement but the distance after full disengagement really does count. The thin little air gap or the tiniest bit of contact will cause the input shaft to windmill, especially at higher engine speed. The ratio of pedal-to-bearing throw is ridiculously high, especially for such a small engine. For the stock system, what may feel like reasonable disengagement is actually marginal.
@Tcoat will attest to my clutch setup. I have my pedal lowered but I also have a corresponding mod to increase the throw at the clutch fork. The two changes cancel each other out to maintain effective disengagement.

When your clutch pedal is fully released, where does it sit relative to the brake pedal? If clutch and brake pedals are about even, the PO lowered it in vain attempt to gain some feel.

Also, in my sig is a a link to the manuals graciously served by a fellow owner. In there are instructions to adjust the clutch pedal to factory spec. Try that before you wear out your new transmission.

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

The clutch is self-adjusting so the only way to get more throw is to raise extend the clevis adjustment and corresponding hard stop up top, which doubles as the cruise cancel switch.

It's no theory. I've adjusted my travel not to just simple disengagement but enough to be able to shift easily. I actually raised my pedal some after learning about the effect. It made quite a difference.

And I'm an older fart who thought he'd seen it all. I learned about it in a discussion here with @Stang70Fastback.

Ultra's clutch has a totally different catch point, throw and overall feel. The mod may indeed help in this situation especially if the prior owner messed with things.