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Ok, nevermind, I got impatient and figured it out.
I unbolted the three rear bolts in addition to the front 2, while supporting the differential, and that worked perfectly. Was able to lower the diff down exactly as needed and get the front bushings in.
Again, the instructions just say: "Support the differential....unbolt the two front bolts....lower the diff a half inch.....voila. Insert your bushing inserts and you're on your way. It then says to bolt them back up, torqe em to spec, then move on to the rear three bolts. So according to the instructions the rear three bolts were supposed to be there the whole time I was doing the front two???
Anyways I got it, so this post may help out the next person who runs into this problem in the future. Still, I'm curious as to how others accomplished this. Are the Whiteline instructions just wrong?
Side note....quick review. I did the subframe and the diff bushing inserts together and it is awesome. Right away as I pulled out of my driveway it was more connected. No more caboose effect. Taking up the clutch is so much more solid and instant into 2nd and 3rd gear.
I was nervous about making my nice smooth quiet 2017 (1st brand new car ever) a rattle box but it's totally fine. Definitely a little clunk here and there when taking up the clutch, some diff noise when turning at low speeds as the torsen bits are getting loaded and doing their job, and overall a slight bit more low hum from the chassis above about 25mph. The thing I notice most of all is when I am really on it, like over 5k, it sounds like the exhaust/engine is louder, but it's actually just the drivetrain. Still on stock exhaust but feels like I put on a catback when I get on it, but like normal when I'm not. I like it. It's like I'm more part of the car.
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