Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectreRT
For header to block - Grimmspeed gasket is great. Forrester XT gasket is better (and cheaper).
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectreRT
Forrester XT gaskets are metal and triple layered, yet somewhat flexible. Perfect for crush sites.
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Generally when people have sealing issues with our gaskets it is either due to misalignment, torquing order, or warped flanges, and is rarely due to our gaskets. Our gaskets exceed OEM spec, so I would have to disagree with you that the FXT gaskets are better. Our gaskets are made out of stainless steel, have 5 layers, and a fire ring. So they are equally flexible, and the fire ring is specifically designed to take the crush and seal the joint. So if the gasket it misaligned, pressure won't be put on the fire ring, and the joint won't seal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabzor
Thanks for the suggestions guys, any suggestions for a bigger gasket for perrin 2.55" gasket? (for those eliminating the donut for 2.5 CBE systems) I was going to get the 2.55" gasket and a grimspeed one and go to a machinist and say here, but thanks
@ SpectreRT so the XT ones are better than the grimspeeds huh? makes sense being turbo I guess
I'll try both your suggestions if the grimspeed double gasket setup wants to leak again |
I would advise against doubling up on exhaust gaskets. When you double up you change two sealing joints to three. So instead of adding an addition point where a leak could occur, I would just and solve the actual reason for the leak. AS stated in the above post, the main culprit for leaks is misalignment, torquing order, or warped flanges. Misalignment and torquing order can both usually be solved by loosening the joints before and after the joint you're trying to seal. Instead of completely tightening one and then then other, do them all in steps. Generally this will be enough to seal any exhaust leak. However, if the flanges have warped from welding, there might not be much you can do short of flat sanding them, other than using a generous amount of copper RTV on the fire ring, and giving it time to cure before starting the engine.
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