Quote:
Originally Posted by Open Loop
Hi everyone. I am building my 2013 FR-S for D-Street, and I am looking for thoughts regarding alignment settings. I have a good local race shop that takes the time to do a good job with alignments, and I want to take the time to set up the car as well as possible before the season starts.
I drive the car regularly, but I have two daily drivers at the moment (other car is a supercharged 99 Miata) so some additional tire wear to benefit the autocross setup is OK. I generally drive in the summer on my "race" tires and expect to get about 5,000 miles out of a set of tires including 10 autocross events per year. If that goes to 4,000 miles that would be OK.
Current setup different from stock is on 235/45/17 RE71Rs on RPF-1s, Strano front bar, Konis. I will add the OE crash bolts to the struts before the alignment is done.
I can't provide you with a good description of how I like a car to feel re oversteer/understeer - I don't have enough experience. I don't race it on a track, so it's autocross specific.
I understand that I will want to ask the mechanic to get me as much front camber as possible, with it being even on both sides, and that camber is not adjustable in the rear.
Is caster adjustable in these cars front or rear, and if so, what are recommended settings?
What is the current thinking on toe front & rear for these cars?
Last, I assume that when the alignment is done, the mechanic doing the alignment will loosen the two bottom strut bolts and push in on the bottom of the strut/top of the hub bearing assembly to get as much camber as possible. Does it make sense for me to tell the mechanic that the top crash bolt is narrower than stock to permit further adjustment in this regard?
Thank you for your thoughts!!
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Recommend you do front camber yourself. Some places will show front camber as non-adjustable, and then tell you "I got the most I could" without touching it. You want the crash bolt in the top bolt, loosen both of them, gently jack up a little bit at the brake rotor and then torque the two nuts (not the bolts!) to spec (119 ft lbs IIRC).
Caster is non adjustable. Rear camber is non adjustable.
Toe I recommend 0 up front and 1/16" toe in for the rear.