Quote:
Originally Posted by gramicci101
Powered subs are a great way to go. The optional Subaru OEM sub is a powered Kicker 10" with a 100 watt amp. I wouldn't get Dual, because that's Walmart quality for Walmart prices, but there are others available.
https://www.crutchfield.com/g_51000/...ml?tp=114&pg=2
From that list, I wouldn't hesitate to get Rockford, Memphis, JL, Alpine, or Kicker. The others are probably just fine; those are just the brands that I like. Focal is too expensive and unnecessarily high quality for car audio.
As long as the amp has high level (speaker wire) inputs, you don't need a LOC. If you don't need a LOC, you can pull the trick with the Metra harnesses and connect straight to the amp's inputs. You'll still need to run power from the battery and ground to a ground point. The remote turn-on will come from the harnesses. |
Hi again!
Just a quick question about the harness you made.. You mention that you keep the signal going to the stock amp + door woofers.. Did you just put 2 wires in one end of the crimp connector?
From looking at your pictures, it looks like that's what you did, but just wanted to make sure. I'm thinking that you took the woofer signal from the first metra harness into a crimp connector ---[[=crimp=]]--- ; however, i believe you stuck the amp signal wire into the same connector on one side, to make a 3-way signal like this: ==[[=crimp=]]---.
So one of the wires on the left is the original woofer signal (first metra harness), and the other is the signal wire going from the crimp -> the new amp. Then on the other end is one wire going to the 2nd Metra harness (which then plugs into stock amp).
Sorry if this question/explanation doesn't make sense, hopefully it does.