I had to fix the mess the body shop made, and it took me over 6 hours to do so with tips from Ultramaroon.
I'm still not totally happy with how it closes / opens, and I know exactly which bolts I need to adjust, but too lazy to cut the butyl seal open again and not make a mess.
Here are my tips:
- Have an exacto knife, or just a any thin, sharp knife. Use this to cut the butyl tape hoping the vapor barrier to the door, almost like cutting an Oreo cookie in the middle of the cream. Don’t pull the cover off, or you’ll make a mess of the tape and/or rip the vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) like the body shop did to my car.
- Make note of which door cable is up + down (green + white). I forgot to make note (and still don’t remember) and couldn’t open my door from the inside after buttoning up everything. lol
- Unscrew the window switch control panel from the door card and plug it into the naked door - you’ll want to be able to roll the window up and down with the door card removed as you do the adjustments.
- Window "depth" (imagine the window moving closer to/further away from you as you're sitting in car) should be done carefully - make sure you have a consistent gap between the window glass and the top trim (I stick my pinky in the gap to gauge how much space there is, the spec in millimeters is in the PDF Ultramaroon posted). Too less, and you'll hear an unpleasant "clank" when the window strikes the trim as you open the door, too much and the window will flex quite a bit when you close the door. There are two parts to this adjustment - there's the actual depth adjustment, and there's the "tilt" - how much the top of the window tilts inwards towards the driver. I just made sure the window is centered in between the felt pads in the base of the window, and adjusted the tilt to gain the appropriate gap.
- Window height adjustment (how hard it presses against the rubber trim at the top of the door frame) Too high, and the rubber trim will be seriously pinched, or the window motor will be forcing the arm up against the door frame and bending the arm over time, or and the "window indexing" feature (automatic scroll down when you open the door) will not be fast enough to roll the window out of the way, and you'll hear a "clank" as it strikes the window trim. Too low, and you don't have enough pressure against the rubber trim, leading to wind whistling through, or water intrusion. There are two parts to this procedure - you want to make sure the window height is appropriate when the door is open, and also when it closes. With the door open, gently push your door against the car, but don’t close it, and try to make the open gap between the top edge of the window and the rubber trim consistent. With the door closed, the two window “sash stoppers” prevent the window from scrolling so far up that it crushes the rubber trim. You want to adjust the bolts such that the window stops moving up at the same time (in other words, the window hits both the front and back sash stoppers at the same time). Window height adjustment was the trickiest thing for me to do, and I’m still not happy with it.
- Window forward/backward position (imagine the window slide towards the front or backward of the car as you sit in it). Too far forward, and the window will push against / stretch the rubber trim on the triangle glass as the window rolls up. Too far back, and you'll have a gap in the front / top.
- Patience. As Ultramaroon mentioned, each adjustment affects the window position in obvious and subtle ways, keep a sharpie on hand to mark your old positions and adjust incrementally.
I attached a PDF of my write up that I started, but never really finished. Hope it helps.
Here's a picture of all the bolts you'll be adjusting
