[Daver]

First I apologize for the amount of info in this thread, I'm being thorough

Hello guys, Awhile back I placed and order for and have now received my dream wheel package for my car, sadly I did not do my due diligence in researching and figured these wheels were basically bolt on. Not the case.

I have been all through the wheel forums and threads, and now going through this forum I have concerns and questions, so Here goes:

Right now I have some staggered wheels 18x8.5+45 Fronts and 18x9.5+40 Rears
I wanted to wrap them in 235/40/18 (F) and 265/35/18 (R)

My original plan was to put the wheels and rubber on stock suspension, I have had lots of differing opinions on the forums and facebook groups if that is possible or not. I really don't still have a clear answer.

I think I do know that I can fit them just fine if I add coil-overs and RCAs , but that is a bigger pill to swallow as the cost is high. If I do the suspension parts everyone in posts I have followed had different values they added or took away from camber - How is that determined on my particular build? Find a guy who just knows his stuff when it comes to camber? use a computer program, or values dependent on manufact. specs?

My ultimate goal is to fit the wheels, and not have a big 4x4 gap, whilst still not trashing the cars fun to drive action. This is a daily driver, I will never track, but do like to drive hard sometimes. I was thinking 1" should fit the bill. I will never slam the car. I also think these particular wheels are too big to just use springs for the drop. - As if all these questions were not enough I have other concerns from reading through some threads here:

At that ride height, (2”) it's going to handle like crap without lots of geometry correction. You'll need about $2.5k in parts other than the coilovers for it to handle like it should at that low of a ride height.

Is a 1" going to kill the handling to such an extreme as well or is it fairly acceptable?

Our cars have very little travel in the rear to begin with and lowering the car 2" burns up most of what you had to begin with. You have a few options: You can pony up for a premium coilover that can better deal with the short travel, you can run insanely high spring rates which will destroy your car's handling and ride, or you can rethink your desire to run your car that slammed

Again 1" drop, will this still leave enough play on that rear travel, or am I pushing it?

1 inch lower than stock is safe and it sounds like 1.2 inches lower seems to be the limit of what you can get away with before you need to seriously think about bump steer and roll centre correction.
I will also note that it's well known that lowering our cars contributes to premature wear in the CV joints in our axles. Lowering much more than 1 inch and you should look at subframe and diff risers or DSS axles so you aren't killing them constantly.

I will google bump steer and roll centere, but my big concern here is wear on the CV joints, is this a legitimate concern at this 1"-1.2" drop?

Suspension is designed to lower max. 20mm without changing geometry (dynamic alignment). A lowering of 30-35mm is not optimal but OK. Personally, I wouldn't lower more than 15mm.

is the dynamic alignment referring our Base setup "feel"?

A 1" drop puts you at roughly -2.5*, a 2" drop will definitely be over 3*, probably more like -4*.

Easily correctable with camber adjusts to maintain the great handles? (only concerned with the 1" drop here)

All my reading has me slightly worried that I will be trashing this cars other internal components by making these modifications, I want to keep the car
quite a few years, so based on the answers here I might need to just sell my dream wheels and pick something else

THANK you and again apologize for size of thread