Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayno
It's going to be way over sprung with big sway bars. The wet will make it far worse. Pretty much anyone down here who wants to go fast runs stock bars, including all the cars in the racing series.
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These swaybars are pretty moderate. 19 mm front, 17.5 mm rear. The main thing for me is the adjustability. Unfortunately I can't say how the hard and soft setting respectively compare to the stock swaybars. The lever arm is significantly shorter in the soft setting.
I got the swaybars to compensate for the coilovers which I from the get-go suspected didn't have optimal spring rates (6 Nm front, 5 Nm rear). My original budget for coilovers was 3-4000$. The reason I ended up with the ST XTA is explained in detail
in this post. I would actually have preferred to keep the stock front swaybar, but for road legality reason they
had to be installed as a pair. Now that they are in the documents, no one will probably notice if I change the front back. I might do that when I remove the cat in the header (fall/winter project after I moved and get my garage).
I don't regret the decision going with the XTA. I still think it's setup issues and that
I am the problem. Because I am not sure what to change to get what effect, so it's a bit fumbling.
Also there is a lack of focus, I have too many task to complete in just 15 min stints. Bedding new brakes, improving my line, running in rain (no experience), seeing how my new tune behaves , changing the swaybars settings and not knowing basic things like what tire pressure to set!
I think the tire pressure is the main issue. If I could check it straight after the 15 min is up, I could adjust it, let the tires cool and note the cold pressure for next time. But bedding the brakes prevented me of doing so the the last two times, as I had to drive afterward to let the brakes cool. Next time I will make sure to come off the track hot and immediately take a reading.
- On not-so-grippy Pirelli tires I had lots of oversteer, with the swaybars set to soft front/rear.
- On Zolder, the car was pretty neutral with the Yokohama AD08R. There I had plenty of time to pit and adjust pressure.
- On Nürburgring GP (faster longer, elevation changes, cambered curves) it's understeers.
Also, the problem might be
my lack of adaptability. Maybe NBR GP requires me to make changes to my driving style that I didn't yet figure out.
In any case I have fun trying to figure it all out.
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Another topic is the tune, I was still on the AU.RICH MAF scale and the fuel trims reverted to what we saw before - around +7 above 45-5000 rpm. So I flashed the tune with modified MAF scale today (didn't want to do it before going on track).
I changed "Desired overrun mass airflow A and B" back to stock. I also allowed myself to add a slight bit of timing in the high rpm and removed a bit in the low rpm. My reasoning is that we lean it out a bit in the low rpm, and that it is not such a priority for me to get low-end power (I rather be knock free). Up high we keep the rich MAF and it didn't seem to knock. So I added half the of the additional values from the 102 octane tune, in the high rpm.
I will drive it tomorrow to let it learn and see if it starts to knock in the high rpm. Hope for a nod of approval (differences to 100 octane):
