Quote:
Originally Posted by FR-Slide
I may just go with a Torque option, but since oil pressure isn't viewable, I got to thinking about how to monitor oil as top concern. But seeing AFR, coolant temp, IAM/KC, and ethanol content (if possible?) would be awesome. Ideally it'd be in the cluster and not where the radio is, to keep glare down, and keep it easily viewable for the driver, but again, we're now talking about a complete overhaul of the cluster system.
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Here's my current Torque setup:
That's an old Galaxy Note I wasn't using any more as a phone, retasked as a dedicated engine computer. I rooted it and flashed it with Paranoid Android to keep the OS and battery usage light. I leave it in airplane mode with bluetooth enabled so that the unused cellular radio doesn't run down the battery faster, then turn on wifi if I need an internet connection from my phone. It's mounted to the little triangular window in the door and powered by a 2.1 amp USB power supply I have mounted under the dash on the cross bar under the steering column.
It shows me everything I need except oil pressure. For that, I have all the pieces I need to install an oil pressure gauge out of a wrecked Beechcraft airplane. I just haven't been able to find the time to do it working six days and having two Jeeps that need more attention. This is the type of gauge I have:
That's actually a cylinder head temp gauge in the pic, but I have the oil pressure version in that same slim case (couldn't find what box it was in to take a pic). The display is the same size as that stupid clock in the center stack, and I have an extra center stack frame and clock unit to cut up and plastic weld back together. The clock is actually on a single board that also has the hazard switch and passenger airbag light, all buttoned up in a plastic housing. Rather than trying to rewire that board, the plan is to relocate it behind the climate control unit. Then I'm going to use the spare clock housing I have and plastic weld the oil pressure gauge where the clock was and my radar detector remote faceplate where the airbag light was and wire in jumpers from the hazard switch to the board behind the dash so that it still works. I need to practice my plastic welding, but my hope is that the final result will look like it came from the factory that way.