I've had the OEM Audio Plus Reference 400CF for about 3 weeks now. I held off on doing a review until I'd listened to it for a while, so as not to have "shiny and new" bias.
Install
3/5 stars
I'd read that this was a simple 3-4 hour gig if you took your time. This wasn't the case for me. It took a lot longer.
I started my install at about 12pm. Cleared the driveway and stripped my car as per instructions. Popping the stock tweeters out was a real pain in the ass, but not OEMs fault.
I'm in Australia, so our vehicles are right hand drive. I'd previously sent multiple messages and support mails to OEM asking about the differences and got no reply.
The instructions tell me to unplug the factory amp. What?!? I have no factory amp. My car is in pieces and I can't continue.
I'd been supplied the US instructions which are different from the Australian ones. Our cars have no rear amp. I search the interwebs for answers and send off a few more support emails asking exactly what I'm meant to do. I've run out of sunlight at about 5:30pm, so the panels/trim go back on the car.
The next day I get a reply from OEM. They supply me with the right hand drive manual as a PDF. I start the install at about 10am. I strip the car again (only half the number of panels needed to be removed this time), and plug in the unit without much trouble... until I get to the battery.
The ring on the power lead is for 12mm, our battery terminals are 13mm. I hollowed out the ring a bit with a file, but then decided to just cut it and thread it down. This worked great. Unfortunately when tightening up the terminal again, my 13mm socket launched into my engine bay. It's gone... bupbow. I also have about 1m of extra power cable which is not ideal, but I'll manage. I could always trim it.
Finally, everything is in except for the foot kicker panel. The OEM unit, at least the RHD version, does not give you enough cable length on the quicksync harness. Everything is taught. I pull the inch or so slack from behind the head unit and manage to squeeze the foot kick panel back on and cable tie the harness below the steering column. It's tight. Really really tight.
The only thing left is to secure the sub in the boot. One of the brackets for the sub was slightly damaged, the thread would not let the bolt through. I got a power drill with an allen key attachment and worked the bracket until it would let the bolt travel reasonably. This generated a lot of heat which made the bracket brittle.
Tip: when putting the rear bolt for the sub in, have your fingers under the sub - this helps the bolt hole line up. It's very easy to start screwing in only to hear the bracket fall off the frame. This is a pain in the ass because it's behind the boot carpet, but fortunately the bracket always lands within arms reach. This happened maybe 5 or so times.
Anyway, with the bracket being so brittle, it ended up snapping. To get a replacement bracket is easy enough, but they are rare as hens teeth where I live. I drove to 7 different stores (with a loose sub in the back) to find a replacement bracket.
Everything is in, and I'm happy. Total install time, about 10 hours.
The downsides are - there is not enough slack in the quicksync harness to get my head unit out without cutting cable ties. There is not enough slack to unplug the amp without cutting my cable ties, removing the rear panel trim and pulling the lead through. I'm not liberal with cable ties - I have 2. One under the steering column, and one at the back near the earth.
This unit needs another 12" on it's quicksync harness. It's stupidly tight. It's cut too short. I'm not sure if there was no demo RHD unit when they developed it and they just went off a car plan, or my harness is shorter than normal.
The other slight disappointment is the rear of the sub, where the bolt attaches to the car. The actual hole in the sub does not have a flat top - so you end up damaging one side of the sub as you tighten in the bolt, and it's hard to tell how tight to go.
OEM Audio were not forthcoming with information for a prospective buyer, but when you have bought their unit, they do a great job of following up queries and making sure everything is in working (and great) order.
Somewhat ironic and frustrating that the prepurchase unanswered queries I had regarding right hand drive vehicles were directly related to the problems I had during the install.
Sound
5/5 stars
I had the stock head unit, but I ordered the OEM system with the Pioneer AVIC calibration. After setting the EQ to flat, the system sounded fantastic. Perhaps a little bass heavy, but perfect when driving. I have history as a sound engineer, music producer, and have experience with high end equipment, and a pretty sweet home theatre system. The OEM system clarity is comparable to MUCH higher cost systems.
I demoed the system to my mother (mid 60s). She said the system was "clear and crisp", which made me laugh a bit, because I'd seen a review video that made me roll my eyes at those buzz words. Her boyfriend said it was very "clean". Hah!
I've installed a Pioneer AVIC-F80DAB, a pair of Polk Audio 4" rear speakers ($110 AUD) and had my car sound deadened (Nitto). The sound quality is now amazing... the bass is no longer too heavy. It's perfect, stationary or moving.
The sound is so good, I find myself listening to music I wouldn't normally. I love my heavy metal and psytrance, and these sound stellar, but there is something awesome about driving through hills listening to smooth jazz.
I cannot say enough about how good the sound is. It's comparable to anything I've heard. The DSP magic this system has is really magic
It can transport you to a concert or a studio.
This system will give you goosebumps.
Thanks for the awesome product OEM.
