Quote:
Originally Posted by EssJay
What do you mean by "more predictable"? Like, a progressively stronger response as it twists/compresses? If so, would that also help guard against bottoming out more than the TRD/Eibachs?
Sounds like bolt up front will help! I'll be sure to include if/when I pull the trigger. But, and this is a noob question, can camber be adjusted regardless of bolts and without "plates" etc? Can the alignment folks adjust it? And is that what is meant by "aggressive alignment"?
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Unfortunately, camber is not adjustable on the stock FRS. You need bolts, but they're cheap. You also need an alignment shop that understands how to adjust them. Virtually all performance oriented shops will know.
'Aggressive' is subjective. To me an aggressive alignment is one where you make compromises in one type of driving (street) for gains in another (track). For a lowered FRS, I think anything over -2.0 camber is pretty aggressive. The inside of your tires will wear faster on the street, and straight line braking will be compromised. 0 toe makes the car a little less stable, so if you do all your driving droning along the freeway at 70mph, maybe go conservative and add toe in. My car is at 0 toe, and it's just fine. Some guys think toe out is better at the track, but not me.
Just a note that lowered cars should have more camber than those at OE height. At OE ride height, body roll gets you camber when you corner. Lowered cars don't roll as much (at least they shouldn't), they need more static camber so that the dynamic camber is high enough.
For a 1" drop, I would start about -2.0 camber all around, and 0 toe.
Predictable: spring rate changes confuse shocks. If you're driving hard, you'll want straight rate springs. Having said that, I've tried the Eibachs on mustangs and they feel pretty damn good on the road!