"Thinking it might be axle.
Anyone have a guide to replace them/tips/plan of attack?"
Best to check with others in the suspension section of this forum... if axle needs replacement. Not sure, me, what minimal parts of rear suspension need to come off to get outer end of an axle out. Surely most anyone would need at least a 1/2" air impact wrench with proper socket to easily get the axle nut off end of axle. The inner cv joint would surely just pop out of diff with a pry bar. It's typically held in with an exterior snap ring.
Inner cv joint may be available separately, as a part, rather than purchasing entire axle assembly ??
Pics of rear end suspension >within< this older online section of Edmunds:
http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/t...alkaround.html