01-18-2016, 06:15 PM
|
#2
|
|
Not Bаnned Anymore
Join Date: Jan 2015
Drives: Heavily Modified FRS
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 9,827
Thanks: 14,918
Thanked 8,275 Times in 4,797 Posts
Mentioned: 355 Post(s)
Tagged: 374 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryoma
first of all, I am looking at the Mishimoto oil cooler. though, I have looked it up on this forum and have seen a big thread with a failure and in it was mentioned a few other failures, but I haven't been able to dig up more information about those other failures. I also noticed that Mishimoto updated their sandwich adapter plate recently so I'm assuming that those earlier leaking problems were fixed, such as leaking from the small hex screws in the side of the adapter plate. does anyone have any inputs on the most recent Mishimoto oil coolers (I believe the sandwich adapter plates are now gold)? and for the ones that installed the Mishimoto cooler, did you screw into the undertray as well or did you just use the top clips to hold it?
next, I have a few questions about installing the oil cooler. I noticed in the Perrin instructions, it says to prime the cooler after install (which seems normal) but none of the other instructions I looked at mentioned this crucial step (I'm assuming they think you know what you're doing). however, my BRZ has the push start button and I just want to confirm if it's the same process to crank the engine by double tapping the start button to ON, then hold down the gas pedal and hold the start button to crank? I would assume it's no different than with a car with a key, but I just want to make sure. also, since I am looking to get the thermostatic cooler, would priming the cooler even work if the engine isn't up to temperature since the thermostat only opens up at around 185F? or would I have to drive the car up to temp, then quickly install the oil cooler?
as for the oil inside the cooler, would I have to manually empty it out by disconnecting the lines to get rid of the old oil? or would the amount inside the cooler not really matter compared to the 5.5 quarts inside the engine? I'm assuming that if you don't manually empty out the cooler every now and then, the old oil inside would be mixing with the newer oil and perhaps bring down the usable life of the total oil?
and finally, is there anything else I need to be aware of maintenance-wise after installing the cooler aside from checking for leaks every now and then? and anything specific to pay attention to when installing the oil cooler? from what I've seen, it looks to be pretty straight forward.
|
I have a Mishimoto setup and it works great for me. I didn't bother prime it. something you need to know is it is a normally open thermostat that means it starts to close when it heats up (this is what forces more oil to the core) in winter I remove the thermostat all together as even at full open it still forces more oil to the core then what I want. No leaks since a failed install attempt (forgot to tighten all the banjo fittings lol! pissed oil everywhere) I do not bother empty the core during oil change intervals. Also oil will always be flowing to the core so dont worry about it going "bad" in the core. Install is super easy if you are a hands on guy. The hard part is dealing with all the extra hose you get. Sandwitch plates are only gold for thermostatic application. Hex screws leaking was fixed with Teflon tape installed by them.
sorry for another poorly laid out crude answer from Go_a_way1 but I think I got all your questions. Anymore quote me or you can always PM me too.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1GiantTurtle
This thread got de-railed quick now it's just about Penis guitars
|

|
|
|