So I'll be upfront here that I know doing this the way I would do it is more expensive but its my quirk. I'm going to be getting the OEM fog light kit first because factory wiring is a big deal to me for maximum plug and play so I know I'm going to be in the hole the initial 300 some dollars there.
So question #1 is will the OLM Bixenon fog housing work with the FR-S OEM braket meant to hold the stock fog light housing in place.
The answer is yes, perfect plug and play. It works the same way the OEM kit does from Toyota and as FT86SpeedFactory's video shows in the install on a WRX.
Question #2 is then what about the wiring and the harness FT86SpeedFactory sells. I've been looking at the picture of the wiring kit from FT86speedfactory and from what I can tell its meant for the base FR-S headlights. Has anybody tackled this on a monogram/10 series FR-S and could share. I definitely want projectors to match for a clean front look and if I can get them with high beams awesome.
Regular FR-S Halogen Headlights: The kit is set up to be plug and play for your setup. You can completely skip buying the OEM fog light kit to get that wiring if you want by purchasing the same 2 connectors the harness uses for the high beam input to do with the low beam input and modify the FT86SpeedFactory Harness. The reason is because the fogs won't work under the OEM setup unless the Main Body ECU see's its dark enough outside and then energizes the headlight relays anyways to switch away from DRL's. Your own personal choice.
10 Series/Monogram/Release Series: There area two options for us to do this with varying tweeks to each.
1.) With the OEM factory fog wiring and modify the FT86 Speed Factory harness by removing the extra plug meant for the base series high beam input and then use that pig tail with taps on the headlight power feed. You would then plug everything else as intended on the harness.
2.) Skip the OEM factory fog lights wiring and main body ECU and tap the Xenon bulb + and - and run down to a H11 pigtail to plug into the all in one HID ballast. Option 2 is the cheapest.
If you don't want to tap the cars OEM wiring harness you can add a jumper section like I'm working on which makes it easy to remove the kit if needed and sell the car with no modifications to the harness.
Question 3 is how to power the shutter for high beam functionality.
You'll likely need some additional wire handy as I'm fairly certain from looking that the pig tail that comes with the projector housings won't reach down far enough to work.
Regular FR-S Halogen Headlights: Route additional wiring in with the same tap for the high beams where you connect the pigtail. Run this down to the projector housing, splice on the connector to the wiring you ran and then connect the connectors from the high beam to the shutter in the housing. When you select the high beams this will also energize the solenoid in the housing to drop down giving you full use of the projector for high beams.
10 Series/Monogram/Release Series:You can't do what the base series can do since we have constant power and this would cause problems with the high beams being on all the time even when our low beams are on. Instead of tapping the high power signal you can tap the shutter feeds to the headlight housings so that when the high beam shutter is dropped out of the way for the headlights it happens down on the fogs at the same time.
