Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisD
Nah I want to stay with the same final drive, just want to swap the stock diff for a Kaaz 1.5 way clutch type LSD. I really want to do it myself rather than getting a shop to do it, so I guess I'll figure it out and update this thread with the answer once its done
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I don't think it will be nearly as bad as a complete rebuild. You only have to remove the differential. If I were to do it, I would do the following.
1) Open stock diff and measure gear backlash on factory gears using a magnetic base and a dial indicator. I would also use the gear mesh paint and get a good set of pictures that show how the gear mesh currently looks. Measure the torque required to rotate the pinion gear. You will use this to ensure correct preload of diff bearings(I believe the factory service manual has values for worn bearings as well, but I'd focus more on matching what it's at now or around that value).
2) Next, remove the stock ring gear and differential bearings (be sure not to swap which bearing goes with which race). Obviously no reason to touch pinion gear at all.
3) Put stock ring gear and stock bearings onto new differential. Again, don't mix up the bearing races.
4) You can try to use OEM differential shims, but the preload may not be correct (new diff being a different width slightly). Anyways, try to use the OEM shims at first and check the backlash, gear mesh, and input torque. If the input torque matches, you know the thickness of the two shims added together is correct. If the torque is too low, you will need to add a thousandth of an inch (guessing here) to one of the shims (too high, remove a little at a time). If the backlash is lower than previously measured, you will need to space ring gear further from pinion. If the backlash is higher than previously measured, you will need to space ring gear closer to the pinion. When you are adjusting backlash, note that you need to subtract from one shim and add to the other. The total thickness of the two shims needs to be constant after the bearing preload (input torque) is correct. Gear mesh will just be a sanity check after that.
5) Replace axle seals on the pumpkin prior to reassembling into car. Remember to use a multipurpose grease where the axle touches the rubber.
Let me know if anything needs clarification.