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Originally Posted by Keenercarguy
225 was what I had hoped to hear so I'm glad I wasnt far off. 225's it is. Thanks! Oh and they are primarily for autocross so I guess star specs are still the way to go(?) they will be put through an HPDE or two but mostly be for autocross. What about Hoosier slicks though, any thoughts on those?
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Wheel width and tire selection are usually dictated by class rules: CS means you have to run the stock size wheel and will want to stick to a 225 tire (min 200 tread wear rating), STX allows up to a 9" wheel where people usually stop at a 245 tire (also limited to a 200 tread wear rating). If you don't care about classing, you can spend as much as you want and do whatever, since you are just in it for fun.
I've noticed that you're in the brake thread asking questions (questions are good), the car is a system and all the parts need to work together (including the nut behind the wheel). The minimum you need is the stock setup, you can run both autox and trackdays stock (I've done it)! You'll be slower than you otherwise could be and you'll have to alter how you drive to limit brake temps on the track (don't drag the brakes, brake hard in a straight line and come off them, maybe even pull the dust shields off).
You need to decide what your purpose is with the car and what class you are going to run in. Seat time, then tires for time; brake pads and fluid for reliability on track are what you need. Stickier tires necessitate better brakes, as do faster drivers or different techniques.
Trackdays are for fun and learning, so you don't really need to worry about prepping to a rule set there (you want to have a setup that is reliable, consistent, and safe). Autocross has rules, especially SCCA, so that's probably what will dictate your setup.
For a start I'd suggest running CS (C Street) where you are limited in what mods you can do (the more you change the car the harder it is to learn and really the car is pretty bang on from the factory). Get a second set of wheels and tires (17x7 and 225/40/17).
The Bridgestone RE71R's are the best current autocross tire, but they are soft and wear quickly so while learning they really aren't necessary. I'd recommend the Hankook RS3's since they last much longer and are super cheap now (because they are no longer competitive). The only other mods you need are: OEM Crash bolts (like $10), and if you're in a FRS I'd recommend a slightly bigger front swaybar (BRZ can do without).
Now, if you plan on going to the track, you'll want some brake pads and fluid. However, you want something that will still work on both the street and at the autocross. At autox, you brakes don't get any heat, so you need a pad with good cold bite. The track has the opposite problem where you'll melt pads that aren't up to the task. These needs are diametrically opposed, so you will be compromising.
I'd recommend something that is a "performance street" type pad (there are some advertised "autocross pads" too), like a Hawk HP+ or the new replacement (like Hawk 5.0 or something). I've had good experience with the Stoptech Street pads, they aren't really a track pad though, so depending on your local track and driving technique you could overheat them. Many other manufacturers have similar pads and anything that works from 100-1200 degrees F should work for you, I just haven't shopped around enough to know what the names for all the other pads are so I won't try to point at specifics. I know people who run Winmax, Hawk, Project Mu, Ferodo and a couple of other brands, but all the autocross guys tend to pick the mid-grade pads and steer clear of the track pads (can't get em hot enough to work and they chew through rotors when cold).
I've been doing autocross for 7 years and tracking the last couple, and I've learned a couple of things. If I can help others shorten the learning curve and avoid some of the pitfalls, I'm more than happy to help out.