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Maybe I'm spoiled locally when it comes to tuners. We've got some good ones. Plus I never considered the emissions thing as my car is old enough to only need a sniffer test. (There must be some kind of ODB2 'all is ok' cheat box out there for tuned cars...)
As far as I know the tuners we have here all started off 'self-taught'. It's more getting to know the interface, and what system they like (speed-density or alpha-n for example). The basics don't really change once you have it down. That being said some have taken some of the courses out there after they started off too.
If I were to start learning myself I would probably get an older Honda/Acura with a Hondata system, wideband, and a book. If you cook it it's no big deal.
But as Dragonitti basically said, a good tuner that knows your system is worth his weight in gold, and can do some amazing stuff while keeping your car safe.
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