[Tt3Sheppard]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

1. I don't like the idea of adjusting the clutch by comparing it to a non-related reference but in this case, it seems to work out ok.

2. That's a little disturbing. There might be a manufacturing defect in the new slave cyl. Now that you know how easy the swap actually is, I suggest going back to stock and compare. Remember, the whole purpose of this swap is to gain feedback from the clutch at the expense of pedal force.

On the subject of verifying clutch adjustment, here is yet another way to get comfortable with the tough/grab point.

Find a nice flat place where you can creep along at a casual walking pace, say 2 mph.

1. Get going in first and disengage the clutch.
2. Adjust your speed to coast at 2-3 mph.
3. Without giving any gas, slowly raise the clutch pedal.

You will feel the characteristic clunk of the driveline backlash when you reach the touch point.

What is happening here?

With the transmission in gear, the wheels are spinning the clutch disk.

The engine is idling a little faster than the clutch disk.

When the clutch begins to grab, it accelerates the clutch disk and all that transmission and differential backlash is taken up in the clunk.

You can tickle the clutch at that spot and get a feel for the exact touch point. Is it high enough that you know you can comfortably disengage the clutch for each shift? That's basically what you need to decide for yourself. Mine's maybe 1.5 inches off of the floor. I have long legs and I always mash it to the hardstop when I shift.

Any time you mess with the adjustment, always always always verify this.

I actually just came back from lunch break and made a few adjustments.

1) I removed the cotter pin and adjusted the clutch bracket by one 180 degree turn to slightly lower the clutch pedal. Double checked free play at the top and was not having any resistance from the cruise control switch. Engagement from the bottom is close to 1 1/2 inches of travel before you can feel the car start to move. I also don't remember that clutch rod being so flimsy after the pin is removed but it's been a couple of years since I last adjusted so maybe that is normal.

2) The clunk noise I was hearing went away after the clutch was slightly lowered. Maybe the cylinder rod was going in too deep/too much force with a slightly higher clutch pedal? I thought it might have been the slave as well but from the engine bay the sound was coming from either the firewall location or the transmission itself.

That link you provided I am wondering if that would ever change because from what I can see that rod doesn't seem to be related to the clutch pedal height. You spin the bracket and loosen the nut so I would think the bracket would move down a bit but the rod itself would always be in the same position/distance. I'm guessing that is more to do with the cruise control switch keeping the clutch from fully returning to the proper position. Or am I an idiot

Appreciate the assistance! I will be testing it more this week using the method you provided.