[UNREAL]

Originally Posted by 8686

I recomend to have oil cooler even if you are not boosted.
I have vented hood, side vents, and oil cooler.
Oil temp and oil pressure gauge can keep you sure that everything is OK
Sent from my 86 using Tapatalk

Valuable advice, That I'll take into consideration

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Compare the area under the curve. A 330bhp VQ37VHR is over 300hp for a LARGE power of that powerband; it's not just a momentary 330hp.

Originally Posted by LOLS2K

@UNREAL The VQ37VHR is also going to produce 250+ ft-lbs TQ very early, and pretty much hold that across the entire band.

I need to compare their dyno graphs... The torque being high through most of the graph makes sense... Thank you gentlemen for your valuable discussion and support.

Originally Posted by strat61caster

As CSG posted above, the issue with 400+ hp on an FA20 is not heat, but rather cramming that much compressed air into a cylinder is difficult requiring an extremely strong engine, you will pay to have it rebuilt to the strongest parts and materials and still not have a guarantee that it will survive and fuel to prevent detonation.
There is a twofold problem here, the first is expectations, do you want less than 5s 0-60 or 370Z like acceleration? Some tests put the 370Z acceleration at greater than 5s to 60/62 mph, lots of things make a difference (like tires, road condition, and driver skill) but ultimately it's rare that ANYBODY will perform a test like this and be satisfied and put the car away and do nothing else with it. It's like judging a car entirely based on it's color.
We assumed "less than 5s" was in the realm of Mustang GT, 4.5s with 435 horsepower and the '10 M3 with a V8 has at least one publication claiming 4.1s in a sedan with 414hp. Many people come here with wild expectations so everyone assumes the worst. As already mentioned you are also fighting the automatic transmission gearing, a final drive swap will be helpful in getting from >7s to near 5s.
The second problem is your reliance on an installer, you are very limited to either off the shelf parts or a specialist who will likely demand a lot of money with no guarantee of end performance, for a GT86 making >300 horsepower at the wheels you will have to trust someone local, do electronic tuning through email halfway across the world or fly a specialist out, no way around it.
Reading your recent posts it seems like your target is actually more reasonable than many assumed, I believe you can get similar to 370Z performance out of a Jackson Racing kit, Vortech, or Edelbrock kit with a standard tune that comes with the kit and final drive swap. The raw numbers may disappoint you (about 240 horsepower at the wheels and slightly slower than 5s 0-62) but look up some stock 370Z dyno numbers, many are roughly at 260 wheel horsepower with about 200kg more weight. These kits have all been proven in relatively high heat conditions (California desert) assuming you also run an oil cooler, upgrading the radiator wouldn't hurt either. Since it sounds like you trust the Cosworth installer I don't think that's a bad option either, put aside your reliance on the numbers and appreciate the seat of the pants feel the car gives you, after all, that's why you bought it right?
tl;dr adjust expectations, buy something proven and off the shelf. If I were in your shoes and knew only what you posted I'd get the Cosworth kit, an oil cooler, transmission cooler, final drive swap and some good tires, probably around 235/245 wide and forget entirely about what 0-60 performance your car has. Accept that you'll lose many races in a straight line unless you buy a different car or spend a lot of money and accept a lot of risk.

Wow another great reply with all credit due to other participants... this one is the best so far...
Yes I want a more lively car that doesn't get obliterated in straight lines by stupid FF sedans and big family SUV's (Most families here are V8 but the weigh twice as much as my 86 if not more), I do want to hold my grounds with pony cars, at least not get so ashamed coughing in their dust...
Older Camaro RS or even SS, since they are almost 1000 pounds heavier than my car and were not as fast as they looked or specéd (Exclude the ones with LE package), Pre-2009 Mustangs GT's with their lousy 305hp V8's etc...
Hyundai Genesis Coupe's, 370Z... BMW 330i... Mercedes 300/350 E & C classes... you get the point?
The GT 86 looks so sporty (Mine in Flaming Red) it is humiliating how often people pull away from you or some challengers challenge you for a short sprint on an empty highway but you have to chicken out of the competition...

I get what I need to do...
1- Cooling everything with Mishimoto
2- 4.88 Final Drive (I asked several times in my previous replies what is the effect on top speed, but no answer till now)
3- a 1.5 LSD since I suspect mine doesn't have an LSD (AT 86's before 2014 shipped without LSD)
4- Drop in air-filter upgrade (TRD or K&N) As I heard that the OEM airbox is quite good and very nonrestrictive making all aftermarket air intakes a waste of money...
5- Better wheels and tires, I'll go with barely legal semi-slicks 18x8.5 and 245 on all corners (That advise I got from TireRack sales representative over their website) you think that size is good enough?
6- Forced Induction will be the last step, I'll go supercharger... less psi, better lower band responsiveness. Cosworth way I'll have to sell a kidney... I'm seriously leaning more towards HKS solution (I heard there is a V3 released very recently)

How is that plan?

Originally Posted by Shankenstein

1) We do have a light car. This is why there is only 200-300 lbs of weight reduction possible (before you make crazy modifications).
2) As others have said, low-end torque is the answer. We have slightly more aggressive gearing than a Z-car... but that's because we don't have as much torque. A manual 370Z has a 3.8:1 first gear and 3.692:1 final drive. An automatic GT86 has a 3.6:1 first gear and 4.1:1 final drive.
Interestingly, the automatic 370Z has a very similar top-gear (0.771:1) when compared to the GT86 (0.767:1). The final drive ratio make the Z's gearing taller overall though.
3) 91 Octane will be difficult to make power, unless you drop the compression ratio.
4) Others have abused the automatic transmission on this car without many problems. It's important to consider the temperature of your transmission fluid (since the oil film is what protects your transmission). A cooler is important. Even with a cooler, you're putting more stress on the parts, so replacing the fluid more often will be required.
Your goals are not impossible. It will just take some supporting modifications to guarantee that the car stays reliable. More power = more heat and more fuel. If you plan ahead, this can be done very reliably.

Great so, I need not to worry much about the AT around 250-300whp, other than better cooling, better oil, and more frequent changes? right?

I use 95 Octane fuel, that is the best we have, how well would that fare against the high compression forced induction scenario?

Originally Posted by Lunatic

I have re-geared my automatic to 4.88's. I am NA so far and the gear change made a world of difference. I have rode in the Edelbrock supercharged car and the bottom end torque is awesome. This will be my next power option. Probably won't give me 0 to 60 5 second times but will be plenty to keep me and my tires happy for a long tine.

how did that 4.88 FD affects the top speed of your car? I really want an answer to that? Thank you

Originally Posted by FRS Justin

What about it?
644hp @29psi
524tq
@ 35 psi (CLASSIFIED)

Originally Posted by AJPG

Nice indeed
But I would keep an eye on the intake manifold at > than 30 psi.

I see, I see ... But no thanks I'm not that confident nor I can control such beast... I think it'll behave ferociously like a wounded lion, and it'd die very soon as a wounded lion too...

Originally Posted by AJPG

I have the 4.88 FD, and could get 125 mph on 4th gear, 65mph at 6th gear at 2,850 RPMs... Thinking on 5.1 FD
That's how much I love the mod!!!
About cooling, well I live in the tropic (hot and humid) and temps are very well controlled for DD, the occasional solo cross events, 1/8 and 1/4 mile... never on 1/2 mile but maybe this is not a car for that
2 engine oil coolers of 10 rows each and secuential, 2 oil cooler for tha AT (the OEM that is oil/water and one oil/air, also1 oil cooler for the SC (vortech). Almost forgot! Big radiator mishimoto I think, with OEM fans.
About speed! It's faster, than stoke... Could compete with others 4 cylinder and maybe 6 cylinder but they have to be NA or very bad tune. For the V8, I have to get in the car before them
But could get 0-60 in 5+ seconds, I run with low boost 9 psi at 6.5k rpms
Hope this help

You mean 165mph at the 6th Gear? you all getting me so excited about that 4.88 FD upgrade
Regarding heat dissipation too many coolers man
How do you manage too keep them all sorted? any photos?
Don't those many coolers radiators reduce the main radiator efficiency by reducing the amount of airflow reaching the main radiator + and at the same time heating the air before it reaches to the main radiator too?




Many thanks again, very informative thread that will be useful to many other fellow 86er's hopefully...
Awaiting for answers on the questions I posted above