[Manji]

In all seriousness, in my opinion, it was the best bang for buck when I weighed up all options. Bang being 300-350whp, and buck being long term, not just initial cost.

For the fa20 to be OEM reliable at that power level, the motor needs $10k thrown at it. Probably $5k on the box (or adapting another) as well.
And then, you're still left with a puss 2 litre when off boost.

I'd worked out that if I blew my fa20 and or box at the power above I was going to spend x amount on it to rebuild and strengthen them.

But if I sold my fa20, box, turbo kit, and added the same x to the value, that is a reasonable budget to allow for the motor swap, which is exactly what I did.

So then it became a choice of what would be better, a built fa20, strong box (eg what I would consider OEM reliable) 350whp, or a motor swap that could achieve the same power.
I weighed up several options, 2GR, 1UZ, 2JZ, 2UR, and LS. Based on the factors and considerations that were important to me, the 1UZ proved the best option.

The fact the 1UZ has little e-cred I saw as a huge positive. It keeps their resale value very low, when compared to the other options above, and the fa20. This equated well for long term economics, which as I've said was a major consideration.

I've been down the rebuilt/forged motor path several times already, on other platforms. People believe that once a motor has "600HP rods yo" that it will never blow, I've never found this to be true. I've had $15k motors last less than 1000kms (albeit race conditions).

Experience has taught me to be realistic with both power requirements (I know that 350whp in a 1200kg car will be plenty) and related to that, reliability expectations. While a 1UZ is an overbuilt motor, as are some of the others above, I accept now that motors are in fact consumables and its best to plan as if it will need replacing often.

Oh, then there's the sound of the thing.

I have a 1UZ in my daily now, an Altezza. I love the car. And its only a stock non-vvti 1UZ. Everytime I drive it I think of what it will be like with 100 more whp and 400 less kg to haul around.

At the end of the day, a high proportion of motor swaps are done for the "look at me" factor. I'll admit I've done it myself. This time I worked out was important to me and made my decision based on that.

No argument that for say another $5k, I could've bought a 500whp capable motor package, with gobs of reliability (put probably not as much as a 1UZ at 350) but I just don't need it. My race car has (well had, I just recently sold it) 400whp in a 1100kg frame, and it didn't need the last 50whp. So I don't see the point in paying for power (and sacrificing reliability) that I don't want/need.

The idea with this build, is that when this wiring is done, the car is done. No on-going forever project that never gets driven because its always getting another thing done (been there). No "shit whats wrong with the motor/turbo/box" No "I wish it had more power". All I need to do once it's tuned is put in my DSS axles that are sitting infront of me, put the Meisters back on, wind the suspension down, put on the trd bumper and vertex sides and ends, put on the endless brakes, and the PBM super angle kit. Then its just a mountain road cruiser for the weekend with the occasional drift track day thrown in; with very minimal (fingers crossed) ongoing cost / issues.

Bliss.