Quote:
Originally Posted by Akya2120
-I do plan to track the car (I live about thirty minutes from a two and a half mile road coarse called The Ridge, maybe you would have noticed that if you weren't a selective reader.) I will probably end up getting braided lines and the master cylinder support, too (depends on how bad brake fade gets, I never pushed my limits in my fathers car, as it's not mine to do that with.) I am not talking about a dedicated air to oil cooler, I am talking about retro fitting the Subaru oil to coolant heat exchanger (you even highlighted it but apparently you missed that.) This actually brings operating temps up faster in the winter time and keeps the engine cooler in hard driving conditions. So you're wrong there.
-The thermostat is something I would do if I was going to boost the car. Not something I would do for no reason. Notice I said maybe (again you highlighted it?) It means that if I am having temp issues it's an option. Wrong again.
-The chassis is nice, I like it. That said a front strut bar is not expensive, and I had seen a couple videos demonstrating the doors deflecting during hard cornering. The door jam stabilizers might help alleviate this. I live on earth, but I am thinking about going home soon.
-I had already talked about the requirement engine work to do FI earlier in the thread, I also had mentioned the fact that I don't plan to do that for at least 2-3 years (maybe never.) I get it, 12.5:1 is real high for FI. To leave it at stock comp and do FI I'd recommend running at least 100 octane, or e85. Ethanol has better pre-detonation prevention than gasoline... None of this is real hard science, pretty sure I get what's going on. To properly run boost on pump I'd say ~9:1 would be right (I haven't really looked into FI with these motors more than looking at what kits are out there. Mainly because it's not really something I plan on doing, especially not any time soon.)
I appreciate your concern, but frankly I know better than you what I do and do not possess. I know that I am going to spend at least a thousand miles figuring out what I think is an important progression of parts for the car (even though I thought about installing an intake and flashing a tune before the 1k mark, oh no.) I came in here to ask questions about some parts, share my joy about getting one of these wonderful cars, and be a part of the community. I have gotten some great recommendations here from some kind folks, which I am thankful for. That's why I ask questions.
TLDR: Don't really care for your negativity, and you're making incorrect assumptions. Thanks though.
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Let me rephrase since you're being defensive and bringing up new points:
- oil cooler: what are you trying to accomplish? Are you going off random data posted online or do you have a specific need you are trying to address? I did not miss anything you posted about going to a local track, by the way.
- why a master cylinder support? I've run for 2 years now without brake fade (using a BBK) and have never had the need for a master cylinder support to address brake fade. It is not a fade issue, it's a pedal feel issue.
- thermostat: what is the point if you are boosting? Just because a thermostat opens at a lower temp doesn't mean it cools any better than a OEM Subaru or Toyota version. In fact, a lower thermostat is pretty much a useless mod piece.
- strut bars are for looks on this car. I have one on my car and I could not tell the difference before/after.
- you missed my point on the engine work... and to "leave it at stock comp and do FI I'd recommend running at least 100 octane" is a bunch of false info. The key thing with running boost on high compression stock internals is the tune (and a lot of actual tuning, not some program flashed remotely). My point was regarding your desire for great gas mileage + forced induction. If you want those two, you need to basically rebuild the motor so that it is "designed for turbo" from the start.
TL;DR: if you don't want an opinion, don't ask for one.