Quote:
Originally Posted by mav1178
I highlighted the parts of your original post that tells me you don't have enough knowledge of this car to make mods at this point.
Let me break it down for you:
- Why a oil cooler? What are you trying to accomplish? Are you tracking it to the point where an oil cooler is needed?
- Your climate is EVERY reason NOT to change anything on your cooling system. Want to destroy your engine faster? Let the oil get to operating temp SLOWER with a lower thermostat or oil cooler.
- Driving your dad's car... and the chassis is not stiff enough? What planet do you live on?
- Great fuel economy + turbo kit do not mix together. Aftermarket turbo kits are not built with a properly set up engine in mind, and if you want true fuel economy you'd also (at some point) consider going with lower compression pistons and a different cam profile to take advantage of the boost and optimizing VE in different areas. Oh, and throw in about $10-20k in "R&D" that you will do on your own vs what a normal OEM would do.
Again: if you don't know how to go about achieving your goals, you need to learn about the pros and cons of each setup before you start to mod.
-alex
|
I appreciate the test of my knowledge, but this was never a question about whether I have the knowledge to do mods. I have done a whole lot of work on all sorts of different vehicles from street and dirt bikes, to trucks, to RVs, and yes... even cars.
-I do plan to track the car (I live about thirty minutes from a two and a half mile road coarse called The Ridge, maybe you would have noticed that if you weren't a selective reader.) I will probably end up getting braided lines and the master cylinder support, too (depends on how bad brake fade gets, I never pushed my limits in my fathers car, as it's not mine to do that with.) I am not talking about a dedicated air to oil cooler, I am talking about retro fitting the Subaru oil to coolant heat exchanger (you even highlighted it but apparently you missed that.) This actually brings operating temps up faster in the winter time and keeps the engine cooler in hard driving conditions. So you're wrong there.
-The thermostat is something I would do if I was going to boost the car. Not something I would do for no reason. Notice I said
maybe (again you highlighted it?) It means that if I am having temp issues it's an option. Wrong again.
-The chassis is nice, I like it. That said a front strut bar is not expensive, and I had seen a couple videos demonstrating the doors deflecting during hard cornering. The door jam stabilizers might help alleviate this. I live on earth, but I am thinking about going home soon.
-I had already talked about the requirement engine work to do FI earlier in the thread, I also had mentioned the fact that I don't plan to do that for at least 2-3 years (maybe never.) I get it, 12.5:1 is real high for FI. To leave it at stock comp and do FI I'd recommend running at least 100 octane, or e85. Ethanol has better pre-detonation prevention than gasoline... None of this is real hard science, pretty sure I get what's going on. To properly run boost on pump I'd say ~9:1 would be right (I haven't really looked into FI with these motors more than looking at what kits are out there. Mainly because it's not really something I plan on doing, especially not any time soon.)
I appreciate your concern, but frankly I know better than you what I do and do not possess. I know that I am going to spend at least a thousand miles figuring out what I think is an important progression of parts for the car (even though I thought about installing an intake and flashing a tune before the 1k mark, oh no.) I came in here to ask questions about some parts, share my joy about getting one of these wonderful cars, and be a part of the community. I have gotten some great recommendations here from some kind folks, which I am thankful for. That's why I ask questions.
TLDR: Don't really care for your negativity, and you're making incorrect assumptions. Thanks though.