Quote:
Originally Posted by ninedice
This used to happen to me. I took it to the dealership and they did some TSB on the ecu and told me it was better. Kept happening so I bought an openflash tablet and changed my idle to 1000. It hasn't shuddered since.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Futaba
Mine occasionally dips to around 400, car gets wobbly for a second until the ECU cottons on and boosts rpm to compensate, sometimes in time with the AC compressor, sometimes the radiator fans, sometimes for no real reason at all, I've learned not to panic about it, if it isn't stalling it isn't a big deal to me.
I find it happens less if I let off the clutch in neutral and haven't just come to a complete stop after gunning it, my guess would be the fluctuations are down to the heavy gas usage suddenly swapping to idle and the fuel miz being off a little.
Has anyone that has this issue WITHOUT CEL kicking in actually had the car stall on a 2014 or newer car? I doubt it.
Last but not least stick to the same fuel, don't be putting in regular then randomly premium because you're making it hard for the ECU to nail down a good setting!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tcoat
I am with you on this. I have had it happen twice. Both times after a long highway run and then into stop and go traffic. The ECU took a couple of minutes to figure things out. It went away and I never worried about it.
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If you have access to ecu tables zero out the Port/direct injection ratio tables up to 0.2 engine load for manual and 0.3 if you auto like below.
Their are three tables cold/warm/hot do all three.
This will make ecu run full Direct injection at idle and its not trying to inject very small amounts of fuel via both injection systems, works well
bump the idle to 700 or 750 from the stock 650
