EDIT: I have since removed the whiteline top strut mounts (KCA335) because of excessive binding and popping of the bearing and springs. Called Whiteline and they said they no longer support this car with this product and believe the car has too much natural caster for their part to work correctly. Working on getting them returned. Wish me luck! :/ I wish I had just gotten camber bolts!! Cheaper and much less NVH and pain in the rump!
So I stayed up late last night and searched the Interlawebathy for info on changing my top hats. Paid off in spades.....
I did both sides in just a couple hours (mostly learning and waiting for bolts to un-seize) by myself in a parking lot with the car's jack, some 4"X 4" pieces of wood and a couple hand tools!
Only removed the top hat's nuts, top strut nut, sway bar nut and wheel...nothing else and all went well.
Added (according to the instructions) 1.5 degrees of static camber and .75 degrees of caster. Puts me about 1.7 static camber and 6.4 degrees caster. And yes. I can already feel it....and I like it!
I took it for a little run this evening and everything it usually does, it did a little bit better. I'm very happy.
Next question. If I added the above degrees to the suspension without moving toe...What do you think the current toe is now? Out more? Or in more. I can't see a diffence. I can see the camber difference, but not the toe. Anyone know how to figure this out? Or have a guess? (I did NOT get an alignment after installing the top hats...that's why I'm asking)
Thanks everyone for the input and advice.
Pax