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Parts are cheap and easy to find. I had a 66 mustang with the factory 289/top loader 3 speed "C code" car. Ended up swapping to a more modern T5 transmission and converting to disc brakes and daily drove it for 5 years or so back in the early 2000s
Lots of information out there for these cars, lots of cheap parts, and very easy to work on. Body panels are cheap but the quality is questionable if they are a repop or not NOS. The 289 is a fun engine, I had a decent cam and GT40 heads on mine and it would move very nicely, especially since the car is pretty light. Throw in a 5 speed with a nice rear end and the car will really wake up.
A few things that I can remember from years past.....
Parking brake is crap
Make sure your setbacks are in good condition (used to be somewhat common to go wot and end up staring at your headliner as the seat back collapses)
Rear gear is usually a 2.xx highway gear, not so good for performance
Check the washer fluid bag for bugs/treasure/drugs
Ditch the points for a magnetic style pickup
Nothing wrong with manual brakes, but 4 wheel drums should consider conversion to at least front discs IMO
Check condition of the pedals, had to replace mine with aftermarket roller bearing conversion due to so much slop in the brake/clutch pedal bushings
That being said, the clutch pedal is like kicking a dead hooker off your kitchen countertop
The steering column is lovingly referred to as a "spear-o-matic" in accidents
Look up the "Shelby drop" that relocates the control arm mounting points for better front suspension geometry
Pay more for a body that doesn't need work
These cars are cheap to find, especially the early coupe cars unless it is a 64 1/2 with the 260 v8. I would pay more for a body that is in better shape but with worse mechanicals. The cars are so easy to work on when it comes to brakes/drivetrain/suspension.
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2013 FRS
Vortech V3 11psi
Revworks UEL - PLM Overpipe - MOTIV catted frontpipe - Invidia Q300
2019 Series.Grey STI - Stage1+ SF
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