Quote:
Originally Posted by Pseud0logik
So either the car is over-rated or it has 17%-18% drivetrain loss. 
I'd like to see more baseline numbers after 500+ miles and an oil change. |
This dyno looks to be on-par with everyone elses baseline dyno on low-mileage cars. You can reasonably expect a few more HP in a couple thousand miles, but nothing to write home about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prava
I know the specs say that the car is 200whp at 7000rpm... But I don't entirely understand how a dyno works entirely. Is it a 3rd gear pull to a certain rpm/mph? Can somebody explain it simply? And also, simply why its not pulling towards the 200whp zone rather than 164.7whp?
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Just a correction: OEM's advertise engine power in crank horsepower, typically done to SAE J1349 [or J2723]. However, OEM's also typically bias their advertising lower than actual in anticipation of a certain engine-build tolerance range at the factory. This is intended to ensure even poorly broken-in engines with on-edge tolerances will make advertised power. OEM's can also bias the advertised number to play games with other brands.
Wheel or hub horsepower measured on a chassis dyno is subject to drivetrain losses and will of course read lower. Getting hung up on the actual number isn't relevant; chassis dynos are best used as comparative tools where you're making back-to-back changes on the same car on the same dyno.
If you want a "real" number, remove your engine from the car and put it in an engine dyno cell and run it according to the SAE methods.