[Dr.Science]

Originally Posted by Moto-P

I haven't setup a track set yet, but my plans are to stick with N1/Taikyu spec of 18x8.0 on all fours with 225/40-18 semi-racing tires for any real track duties.

For casual Sunday track races, even the OE supplied 17" with Stock tires are plenty fun! This car really shines on the raceway with proper gearing, just the right amount of grip to teach you to drive better, and balance and composure with confidence like no previous Toyota/Subaru. Speeds may not be lightening quick, but man does it put a smile on your face from cheek to cheek!!!!

If you own a FRS/BRZ, just go out and have fun on a raceway! It's born from 18 months of development at Fuji and Nurburgring! The stiff in-town ride will be totally justified, once you experience this car on the track. There are lots of novice sessions at each part of the USA. I'll even sit with you and teach you all that it takes, safely and enjoyably! Lets go!

Originally Posted by Moto-P

True on both accounts.
Master Cylinder stoppers are made to reduce flexing of the vaccuum tank and secure the master cylinders to exactly location, so that under loads of hydraulic pressure it won't move around to reduce pedal feel. It does not add to the braking force required as all modern brakes are good enough to lock up all four tires on a moment's notice (if there's no ABS that is...)

It is the partial and forceful braking operation that is key to performance driving and for many cars this MCS is a beneficial addition for those who know how to use the brakes well. Having said this, it is few and far between for self-proclaimed enthusiasts who don't actually have titles in racing events... But, the benefits are real for anyone aspiring to become a proficient driver, and it does also reduce wear on the master cylinder walls internally since it will help hold that device in alignment better.

As for bending stuff in cars by adjustable braces. That's just the fault of the installer, as anything with a turn buckle acts like a jack/press, and if you are twisting that thing well beyond necessary tensions, it can totally bend stuff on the car. LOL! It's meant to hold the car in current dimensions! Not to bend it out of alignment!!!! The adjustment is there to take any variances in older cars which may have a few millimeters stressed out of alignment or specifically brace-spot-welded uni-body which may have slight growth from heat treated body structure expansion.