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Old 04-28-2015, 07:32 PM   #14
B-R-Z
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fika84 View Post
This is a good way to go for sure. The amp gets it's signal from the front speakers and sends them to the doors so everything is right where you need it!

Did you do anything with the rear speakers? Did you replace the amp?
I am running 100% off of aftermarket amps, not using the factory amp or headunit built-in amps at all. Rear speakers I disconnected and zip-tied to plug right next to the speaker.

Dash and doors are powered by a Soundstream Rubicon RUB4.500 75x4 @ 4 ohms. Sub is powered by a Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.1000D 1000x1 @ 1 ohm.

I ran 12 gauge OFC speaker wire for everything (doors/dash/sub). The only part where I cheated is for going from the cabin out to the doors. There is a plug right by each door that I pulled the +/- pins out of and connected the speaker wire to those. I then did the same with the speaker wire that attached to the factory speakers in the doors. It was a major PITA to get 12 awg wire through the rubber grommet so this was an easy work around.

OP: You could re-purpose the factory wiring as long as you are not running a lot of power. Use the factory amp signal leads for dash speakers, and then R/L factory amp output lines for doors (as it is already connected). You would then just need to run an RCA from HU to your amp in the trunk. You should also run a power line from battery if adding an amp, but if your amp is low-power you technically could re-use the factory amp power wires..I would not recommend it though. They make nice little amps that can fit into the factory location. You will need some DIY and re-pin/pin-pulling skills.
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