03-23-2015, 02:33 PM
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#13
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Hit the road and I'm gone
Join Date: Oct 2014
Drives: 2015 FR-S Burnt Orange (Hot Lava)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gramicci101
Get on www.DIYsoundgroup.com and look into the Fusion 10, 12, or 15. Any one of those will just astonish you with its effortless clarity and detail, especially at reference levels.
Then get on AVSforum's DIY forum and look for lilmike's lilwrecker, microwrecker, or cinema F-20 for the low end. A proper horn-loaded subwoofer is an amazing thing. Again, effortless authority, clarity, and power. The lilwrecker has a low end corner of 17 Hz at 115 dB, with a plain old Alpine type S 15" ($115) at 500 watts. If you need moar lower, look into a gjallarhorn, g-horn v2, or othorn. Now you're looking at a low corner of 10-12 Hz at 100+ dB. Those use much much more expensive drivers and much more power though.
For stereo music, I would do Fusion 12's or 15's, a lilwrecker in the front, and a cinema T-6 horn elsewhere in the room to minimize room modes. If I was doing a theater, I'd do three Fusion 12's or 15's across the front, and four Volt-8 or Volt-10 coaxials (wider dispersion, better off-axis response) for my surrounds. Two lilwreckers in the front, and a microwrecker in the rear.
Perfect clarity at reference level volume. It's a glorious thing.
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I'm not sure how you get 10-12 Hz response out of a horn loudspeaker. The low frequency rolloff of a horn is determined entirely by the size of the mouth; the bigger the better. But you would need a horn with something like a 32 foot mouth diameter to achieve that sort of low frequency response. Perhaps with a lot of equalization and a MOTHER of a big amp, you could do it, but then you lose the entire advantage of a horn, i.e., low power requirement.
If you plan to use a lot of power, then just use a regular cone driver and equalize the bass until the curve is correct. Cheaper and easier.
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