Be careful choosing harnesses on eBay. Some will say "Metra xxx" (or Scosche yyy) but if you read closely they're only telling you those numbers to show comparability and they list some other company and part number as the manufacturer of the one they're actually selling.
I've also noticed that many of the vendors on eBay and Amazon keep showing the same old picture from when they first started selling the part, even though Metra (or whoever) has made changes (switched to a different plastic shell and/or added or deleted some of the wires). Even Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix are guilty of this. Some eBay and Amazon vendors show their old picture of one brand's harness but now are really selling a different brand.
Also, some of the cheapest harnesses (such as those from DB Link) have smaller-gauge wires (20 or even 22 gauge on the Toyota 1761 type harnesses).
Caveat emptor.
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Originally Posted by SVXdc
I haven't seen any of them made with glue. It's just that on some companies' shells, the plastic "lance" that locks in a pin can be very difficult to reach and hold with your screwdriver to swing it clear of the terminal.
On a good 70-1761 style shell, the wire will practically fall out from its own weight when you release the lance completely (assuming you're holding the shell with the wire pointed straight down).
Tip: Use a bench vice to hold the shell so you can use one hand to release the lance and the other to tug on the wire. Bright light helps you to see what you're doing. If it takes more than a little force to pull out the wire, you haven't released the lance enough.
Here's a drawing of a similar shell and terminal, showing the kind of thing you're dealing with:
(click to see larger image)
Start by pushing the wire into the shell slightly (to release any tension on the lance by the terminal).
You need the tip of your small screwdriver (or whatever tool) to catch below the tip of the lance (colored blue) and swing it up out of the terminal (gold). The lance will only move about 1 mm.
Keep a little bit of inward pressure with your screwdriver, so that it won't slide off the tip of the lance. But don't jam it in too hard, or you'll damage the lance (and then you really won't be able to extract the terminal without having to cut open the shell).
When you do it right, you should be able to pull the wire (red) out the back without very much force.
BTW, the appropriate color for 6-pin pin #1 would be yellow (+12V Battery = constant on), instead of red. |
Anyone who wants one already re-pinned with the proper colors for the BRZ/FR-S amp harness, order the Toyota-style "10+6-pin 'forward' harness" from me and let me know that you want it pinned that way at the time you place your order. See my site for contact info (or if you use PM, include your e-mail).