Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Snooze
When removing rotational mass from the drive train I am suggesting there is less inertia to overcome.
I'm am being a pedant here but if one is measuring power on an inertia dyno and one remove a significant amount of drive train inertia I am suggesting the reading, that is the power displayed, will increase. That is, there has been an increase in acceleration therefore an increase in power.
This is the way I interpret the system.  |
The difference in drivetrain mass is theoretically most effective in lower gears, where the mechanical advantage amplifies any change in the same way a dyno does (vs your car on the street.) WHP is a fuzzy enough number as it is. By the time the car is moving much, other forces start to play a bigger role. Rolling resistance, surface quality, and at some point aero... on a bad enough surface, it could even be possible lower rotating mass could hurt, though that's probably stretching a bit.
I grind coffee by hand, and have a pretty big flywheel on the grinder (HG-one) - the uneven resistance of the beans and the burr is smoothed over noticeably as a result. Assuming you had a road just as bad...
Anyway, the way to eliminate this whole HP mess from the discussion is to instead focus the OP on the intended results of said HP increase.
I've never met a car that didn't, at some point, start to feel stretched out, leaving me wishing for just a little more power. With this car, the answer is obvious - add a corner there! Ahh, fun again. Staying boost-free, I think more results can be had through focus on getting that grip to the ground: tires and suspension setup. Yeah, you won't wind out quite as fast on a long straight, but just about everywhere else you'll be faster. Assuming you're not at a dragstrip...
That's not to say a header and tune aren't a good investment, especially if e85 is an option.
C