Quote:
Originally Posted by toast
You are going to need an adapter no matter what, the stock speaker itself has a built in frame that spaces the driver out away from the door sheet metal.
I don't have any experience with anything other than the reference series. The 3" full range driver can easily handle your amplifier output provided you cross it over high enough. The setup I linked above is running 130 watts/channel. High pass from the amp at 12 dB/octave set to 70 Hz, then the 6 dB caps/coils to separate the door and dash speakers at 800 Hz.
If you have the extra two channels you can drive a pair of reference 4's for the rear provided you put a capacitor inline that will block the bass. I would put in the appropriate cap for a 200 Hz high pass.
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Its a 4 channel amp, so would I run dash and doors from the same 2 channels? Or would I be better off running each speaker (total of 4) off of a separate channel? If I ran each on their own channel I would leave rears not used, or run directly from radio.
In either scenario, I would put the 6db cap/coils on the dash speakers since I do not want them running at the same freq/level as doors. If they can really handle that much power when crossed correctly, I prefer to go the 2-ohm/125 watt route. Does Dayton make a 3.5" and 6.5"/7" 2-ohm that you feel could handle 125 watts?
Thanks a lot for your response