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Sorry to hear that, I have done this in my past as well. The thing about clay that some people don't know is that it is impossible to clay a car without leaving some form of marring. Think about it your are attempting to remove bonded surface contamination but your technically using the detailing clay to "sheer" the contamination off. Then you drag the contamination all over the paint until you fold the clay. So clay is great but it has a time and place and that place is prior to polishing, as the polish stage will remove and defects made with the clay. Also what brand of clay? make sure to use a TON of lubrication and a very mild clay in the future.
Now onto the polish question. Polish in its nature is abrasive but to an extent. Some polish is mild some is more of a medium cut. Its the pad combination that could also make it more or less aggressive. Compound is the most aggressive form of polish. My question to you would be how do you intend to apply the polish, Machine?, Hand? I respect the fact you don't want to start removing a ton of your clear coat. I don't blame you, but don't be too scared of the thought of correcting the paint, but do it one time. A polish job is to repair the issue, then I would highly recommend a wash system that would enable you to not install swirl marks in the future. A proper two bucket system, with grit guards, multiple multi-colored microfiber sponges for washing, microfiber drying towels, good shampoo, and of course long lasting protection in the form of a sealant or coating.
I have a PC 7424 and its more than enough to correct paint with a white pad and a decent polish you can perfect your paint then be very careful in the future.
Now if you want to hide the damage for a small amount of time then a glaze is something you would want. Most people use for a car show to hide scratches for a week or two lets say. It is by NO MEANS a permanent solution. Feel free to ask any questions or PM me.
Last edited by NLS8520; 10-27-2014 at 04:27 AM.
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