Rebuild is done
The car was rebuild without any trouble, only one part, some coolant cast pipe, was unexpectedly cracked. Everything else bolted on as expected.
There was more small parts missing than I thought. If you do buy a crash cars, make sure you keep every single bit you can because small $5 plastic part add up quickly. The rebuild cost was 90% parts as the car is pretty simple to put together and plenty of space to work with.
The biggest costs of the rebuild were: hood, fender, bumper, windshield and radiator fan shroud. I could have gone aftermarket while at it, but considering the stock part are cheaper and I did not know if the car would even drive properly I did not want to spend money on carbon fiber parts and make things more complicated than they need to.
To save cost I skipped a couple of items: ac radiator (ac compressor removed), windshield washer tank, fender side emblems, fender side lights, 2x airbags (dashboard is open on passenger side), 2x seatbelts (note the seatbelts are dead once airbag goes off), no paint job (I plan a wrap later).
My only concern is that we were not able to align the fender and bumper perfectly. As you know the bumper supports/fitting around the headlight are not ideal, and in my case the gaps are less than stellar. I think the problem may be with the fender support on the chassis, by the a pillars . I bet these are misaligned after the crash, and it will be near impossible to bring these back to factory specs. For a track car, no worry, but I was hoping to bring the tolerance back to stock to stay away from the 'lemon racer' look :S
Track bits $$
For the track I added the following parts(approximate values):
- $500 - 17x9" rims
- $100 - 245 BFG R1 tire
- $400 - carbotech xp12 pads front and back
- $100 - motul rbf fluid
- $700 - momo daytona xl seat
- $100 - momo seat side brackets
- $100 - recaro seat slider
- $160 - floor mounting bracket (planted)
- $200 - harness bar
- $400 - 6 point harness scrotch enduro
First day at the track
I was quite worried when I got to the track, so much so that I came with my previous track car, just in case the FRS would fail after the first lap. So much can go wrong because of a small $2 part, I was bracing myself for the worst.
The first lap was under rainy condition with new tires and pads, so I was taking it very easy. To my surprise, the car was running smooth and straight.
After a couple of laps, tires and pads were ready and I started pushing it pretty hard. I did not manage to get the oil temp on my damned iphone but water temp stayed stable and the car was driving straight as an arrow. I could not believe it but the bet paid off!
After looking back, I think I would have been better buying an auction car with high mileage in the $14k wholesale. Less headache and cleaner car and less risks. But I did save a good $5 to $8k going the copart route, that should allow a good bit of performance parts
At the track all parts performed beautifully, the carbotech XP12 brake pads are fantastic, no fade and tons of bite. I'll wait to see how long they last, but a great purchase for sure. I am not the best driver and brakes take a lot of heat with me so you can buy these without hesitation! I don't even think I'll need brake ducts for a while. remember that I am in miami and ambiant temperature were above 80F. Tires were a lot more predicatable than I thought. I'd say the BFG R1 are more of a slick R compound than a race slick like hoosier. It was my first time on slicks and I was able to feel the car slide and get some minor drift under control. I was not pushing it in the high speed sweeper as they are still more brutal to save than my previous yokohama adv08 though.
I should have skipped the recaro slider as it increases the seat height. To fit I had to remove the seat bottom cushion, which in turn resulted in butt sliding because of the lack of cushion grip. I wanted adjustability for the begining, but it was not needed as I fit really well in the car.
BTW, I did not have any problem with ABS or other nannies. At first I did not press the traction control (TC) long enough so TC kept interfering especially under wet pavement. I maintained the button pressed to fully disable the traction control and I did not feel TC interfering anymore. My mechanic told me that the ABS got out of whack in one of their car because they had removed the steering sensor as they changed steering wheel, and that once you put it back, you have to reprogram the ECU or wrong data with steering alignment cause the ABS to act up. You apparently need the toyota tech computer to reset it, a pain in the ass. So they were carefull while removing my airbag to keep the sensor on the wheel.
Comparaison with previous ride
Now for some comparaison with my previous ride. My fastest time with my 2003 porsche 911 stock except ad08 + pfc08, was 1:46. My fastest time of the day with the FRS stock except bfg r1 + xp12, was 1:50. Needless to say I was going round corner faster and braking later, mind you the tires are not in the same league. With the Porsche, I was always worried about something, oil pressure, gear box, paint job. That's the main reason why I never switch to slick before as many reported the additional grip could cause oil starvation and engine failure...you get the idea. Advantage Scion FRS!
The Scion inspired so much confidence that I was able to brake in the 100 feet zone in my second session and ... do my first off track grass mowing session in my 3rd session. Too much confidence there
Conclusion
Overall, I am super happy with the car and my decision to retire the Porsche from track duty. The scion will cause me less grief if I bang/crash it and it goes around corner fantastically. I have to say that I will miss the grunt of the porsche and the rear engine bias which is so much fun to try keeping under control. I love both cars but for a track duty, The FRS is a superior car for me.
I can't wait to add some good syspensions on it !
Video:
unfortunately I got very spotty connection with my bluetooth GoPoint BT1 so Harrys Lap Timer (HLT) is not showing much data and GPS reception was also very poor. Strange as I never had problem with my previous ride. Anyways HLT was never able to read the oil temperature as toyota use an usual PID for it and this can't be configured with HLT

I hope they come with a fix on that as I love this app. High quality videos made simple. I recently purchased a Vbox sport that I'll try next time.
[ame]http://youtu.be/dHgGYtsyp60[/ame]