Quote:
Originally Posted by imom
Thank you for the explanation. Since the DI have rubber seals on them that can get too hot and melt. Couldn't there be a different way; maybe a different head or work around that can use say a metal threaded injectors instead of rubber seals so the cylinders don't leak from the direct injectors? Your engine sounds fantastic... but that's doing a whole tear down and rebuilt for racing which is quite a different need for a street car like mine that will never track. 100% agree if you can build a reliable track car that the street car can be reliable too; but the cost associated is significantly more.
Is it the only way to fix the DI seal issue is to do as you said where you reverse the way the engine is fueled? The DI gets all the fuel it can to cool the rubber seals and the port injectors are the supplement.... can it be though if the engine still gets to hot that the seals eventually will still cause a leak from heat damage of the seals?
So if I had force induction bolted on...then I got an engine tune where the DI are the main fuel source and the port injectors are the supplement fuel supply...will that be enough for say 250 to 300WHP and have a reliable motor?
I'm sure the motor will need an oil cooler and intercooler, but just want to know how reliable is this route given your experience and expertise in this matter. Thanks for the advice Phil.
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Well keep in mind we race our "street" engines and my car is a daily driver...sort of. LOL! Hey it has AC and I race it to an from work
You are asking to double your factory HP at the wheels, remember that, race car or not. They just don't over engineer engines like they used to.
Now I raced my car pretty hard with the Hydra EMS and the factory motor both in NA form and boosted. It was pretty reliable to about 340 whp but it snapped the rods at about 400 hp under racing conditions. What this thread is mostly about is the safety of the oil pressure at higher power levels and we can only "fix" oil pressure with an engine build at this point. We will be releasing a "bolt-on" solution also but I wouldn't consider this an easier solution.
The DI seals are plastic like mentioned (not rubber) and it's a known concern on all DI engines being run hard. You have to keep them cool and by doubling the HP you aren't helping that. LOL! It's really not the head temperature that's causing the seals to fail, it's combustion temperature and pressure. Detonation spikes cylinder pressure immensely and not keeping the body of the injector cool is why they fail. So kill the detonation events, increase fuel flow through the body of the DI injector, and you could also supplement that with a Hydramist Injection kit if using the Hydra EMS.
Bottom line is to stay really conservative on your boosted application when using the factory motor. I don't really see with good tuning a 250-280 whp setup being trouble for a factory engine at all. All of that is highlighted throughout this thread.