Quote:
Originally Posted by imom
Thank you for the explanation. Since the DI have rubber seals on them that can get too hot and melt. Couldn't there be a different way; maybe a different head or work around that can use say a metal threaded injectors instead of rubber seals so the cylinders don't leak from the direct injectors? Your engine sounds fantastic... but that's doing a whole tear down and rebuilt for racing which is quite a different need for a street car like mine that will never track. 100% agree if you can build a reliable track car that the street car can be reliable too; but the cost associated is significantly more.
Is it the only way to fix the DI seal issue is to do as you said where you reverse the way the engine is fueled? The DI gets all the fuel it can to cool the rubber seals and the port injectors are the supplement.... can it be though if the engine still gets to hot that the seals eventually will still cause a leak from heat damage of the seals?
So if I had force induction bolted on...then I got an engine tune where the DI are the main fuel source and the port injectors are the supplement fuel supply...will that be enough for say 250 to 300WHP and have a reliable motor?
I'm sure the motor will need an oil cooler and intercooler, but just want to know how reliable is this route given your experience and expertise in this matter. Thanks for the advice Phil.
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The DI injectors use Teflon seals, the same material used by most, possibly all, other manufactures of gasoline direct injected engines. The melted seals was due to a timing strategy the factory used between shifts, shift often enough at high rpm and the seals would melt. That strategy was fixed within the ECU's tuning and to my limited knowledge the issues went away after that.
Yes, I to have thought the use of Teflon instead of a copper o-ring is a little absurd. But clearly it can work just fine. There will always be unexpected issues with a new product, but this one is fixed now.