Originally Posted by GTV86
Foreword: Hi. I'm going to use this thread to provide information to people considering swapping out their motors for Toyota V motors. I'm going to focus on these motors only, as this is where my own knowledge and interest lies.
I'm sure similar threads for JZ and LS swaps will appear as the people doing these swaps choose to share their information.
Please bear with me as I put populate this information, and my own build thread. I don't have time to sit and do it all in one hit.
While the goal of this information is to provide facts to those interested, no doubt I'll slip in the occasional opinion.
Not intending on it becoming a step-by-step walk through or a DIY. It's more about putting all the relevant information together so that one can make an informed decision. Many of these motor swap options have very little information online, as the majority were found in JDM cars only, and some only in uncommon cars sold elsewhere.
FAQ...
Q. The FA20 is all alloy and is really light. Won't a motor swap add a lot of weight and ruin the handling?
A. Short answer? No.
Long answer, let's break it down.
For a start, my FA20, full dressed, with gearbox was a smidge over 220kg. I didn't bother splitting the motor and box. I know the box weighs a bit over 40kg. That puts a dressed FA20 at 180kg.
Let's talk about those two weights.
Firstly, is the FA20 light? NO.
My sr20det redtop, dressed, with a turbo on the manifold, and a 5 speed box was less.
My 3SGE Blacktop Beams dressed, which is a genuine 200whp NA motor (with some work) which is an iron block, and superior to the fa20 in every way, weighed less as well. This was with a j160 6 speed, which is very similar to the GT86 box.
Admitidlly, both combos were only marginally lighter (literally a few kgs) and the 3SGE had a very light flywheel, that if it had the OEM would've made in a couple of kg more than the FA20) but the point is that the FA20 is not the featherweight everyone assumes it is.
A GR family motor, is around 15kg more than the FA20.
A UZ family motor, is around 30kg more than the FA20. (All are at least double the displacement)
A UR family motor, is around 40-50kg more than the FA20 (depending on which UR you're comparing.
Keep in mind we're comparing to a stock FA20. Adding power to it adds weight. Whether its a turbo system or a supercharger system. These FI systems can weigh 20kg or more.
Q. I've seen some weights of conversions already, and they add more weight than that.
A. I agree. Above we're just comparing motor weights. Often these conversions have added stronger gearboxes, more cooling, bigger wheels are tyres etc. Exactly as you would need to do to a boosted FA20 (to keep it realiable) Of course you could run a similar weight box, and minimal cooling to keep the weight down if you were really worried about it.
Q. Even if it isn't as light as it should be, its was made a boxer because it has better CoG.
A. Let's not fall for the marketting too hard here. Its a boxer because its a Subaru. Toyota just lent them a diff and some direct injection, then slapped their badge on it. If the car was a Toyota, they would not wasted their time developing a new motor layout when they had the 3SGE beams, the 2ZZ, and if they wanted something larger, one of the GR units. All of these motors are superior to the FA20.
If you truly believe the car received a boxer for CoG reasons, they ask yourself why it was mounted 200mm further forward than it needed to be. Surely if they were so concerned about CoG and balance, that's something they would've addressed? (By the way, the FA20 was installed where it was, almost certainly because it was easier to assemble and service. But it was done at the expence of ideal placement.
Q. Why a Toyota V6/V8? Why not an LS?
A. Toyota make exceptional motors. They have done since the 70's. The LS motors are certainly a great option for this platform and I don't discount them at all. Some people prefer DOHC V8's, others would rather a pushrod V8 as it saves quite a bit of weight and space. (As a point, an LS motor is similar weight to a UZ motor, but has significantly more displacement) Another major consideration is availability. LS motors came in very few cars sold in my part of the world, yet we get flooded with JDM imports, and so have an abundance of their parts. A UZ motor is far cheaper than an LS here as a result. The opposite maybe the case in your area. If both motors we the same price, same availabilty yada yada, would I choose an LS over a UZ, possibly. It's not all power and torque numbers, other things are important to some. How it delivers that power, how it sounds. Again in that respect, some prefer DOHC, some prefer push rod. Some might just want to put a Toyota engine in, so the car feels more like a Toyota. This isn't really my motivation, but know others think this way.
Q. What about wiring and tuning?
A. Will answer later
Q. Whats a vauge costing on such a motor swap
A. Will answer later
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