Quote:
Originally Posted by Element Tuning
It's a simple device that has it's place but has some shortcomings which with the right company can send you off with very little downsides. A dry sump is superior but comes with a superior price tag and has its own shortcomings for street cars.
We have figured out a solution with our internal engine mods and when coupled with some off the shelf products like a Perrin Oil Cooler and an accumulator (lots of brands) I can sell engines with a clear conscience now. 
Next an external oil pump for more serious racing and HP users (keeping AC is my goal) prior to going dry sump.
Thanks,
Phil Grabow |
I spent the past two months now looking at oil temp/pressure data on three cars now.
We have an annoying issue to contend with here as for users who deal with cold weather mean colder starts are very difficult when you have 125PSI oil pressures and 10-15 minute oil warmup times to get pressures and temps normal.
That rules out "thicker" oils for daily drivers in my opinion.
But your findings follow what I am seeing. As temps climb pressures drop.
Quote:
On the 9PSI Vortech with Perrin Cooler:
At oil temp of 200F:
Pressure 58-60PSI @7000RPM
At oil temp of 210F:
Pressure 55-57PSI @7000RPM
At oil temp of 220F:
Pressure 46-47PSI @7000RPM
At oil temp of 230F:
Pressure 45-46PSI @7000RPM
At oil temp of 240F:
Pressure 40-42PSI @7000RPM
Stock Motor No Oil Cooler:
At oil temp of 200F:
Pressure 62-64PSI @7000RPM
At oil temp of 210F:
Pressure 60-61PSI @7000RPM
At oil temp of 220F:
Pressure 56-58PSI @7000RPM
At oil temp of 230F:
Pressure 55-56PSI @7000RPM
At oil temp of 240F:
Pressure 53-54PSI @7000RPM
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My concern is obviously for those who are running higher redlines. I talked with Bill from Delicious and he is running his tuning at 7800RPM redline because the car is making power. How many tuners are really paying attention to pressures as heat climbs.
Based on this info and some of yours Phil, I personally would not recommend anyone running FI to be pushing much past 7200RPM on the track as temps get passed 220F running 0w20 or 0w30. It just seems like most failures are tied to bearing skimming. And most users don't understand the factors that can lead to all of this.
Whats your feeeling on that?