Quote:
Originally Posted by eikond
I'm not sure I agree with this part..
And again, I'm no physics expert
Here's what I think I know.. Brakes work by having the master cylinder push brake fluid through the lines into the caliper to fill in behind the pistons. That hydrolic pressure pushes the pistons outward and that in turn pushes the pads into the rotor face. The friction created by the pad pushing against the rotor allows you to slow down.
Knowing this.. I don't think you should "double" the calculation for the OEM sliding calipers. They only fill with fluid on one side. The hydro pressure from the master cylinder is only filling in behind two pistons. That force is distributed to the other side as well.. but it's not double force.. it's the same amount of hydrolic fluid.
If anything, I'm worried they have too much front bias.
I'm planning to do the 2 pistons rears as well.. just need to come up with the extra $400 to finish it off. Doing so should help even out the brake bias (whether the Z calipers have more or less force.. it should help equal it out going to fixed on all 4 corners).
Any thoughts?
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Equal and opposite reaction......
Do the rears fit? I can't recall 300z rear brake specs, haven't installed them for years it seems like. By fit I just mean wide enough to fit new pads and the rotor since you can make any caliper "fit"
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-Dave
Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback
DD: 2005 Acura TSX
Tow: 2022 F-450
Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4
Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX
Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build
FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles